🔧 Charger - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear calipers, swap the pads and rotors, then torque everything back to spec. This restores braking performance and prevents noise/vibration from worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Wear a dust mask and safety glasses; brake dust is harmful.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• 🛑 Make sure the parking brake is fully released before rotor removal.
• 🛑 Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket 22mm
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Socket 13mm
• Socket 18mm
• Wrench 15mm
• C-clamp 6"
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully (rear rotors won’t come off if it’s applied).
• Open the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (do not remove it completely).
• If your Charger has an electronic parking brake switch, keep it released and do not cycle it during the job.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen rear lug nuts

• Use a 22mm lug nut socket with a breaker bar 1/2" to crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn.

Step 2: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the correct jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under safe support points and lower the car onto them.
• Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

• Use the 22mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8" to remove lug nuts, then remove the wheel.

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper

• Locate the two caliper guide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the guide pin bolts while holding the guide pin flats with a 15mm wrench.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord so it’s not hanging by the brake hose.
• Tip: Hook the bungee to the suspension spring.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out by hand. If they’re stuck, gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Remove the old pad clips/hardware from the bracket.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 105 Nm (77 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray, then tap around the rotor hat with a dead-blow (if available) or wiggle it free by hand.
• If the rotor won’t slide off, the parking brake shoes may be dragging—double-check the parking brake is released.

Step 8: Clean the hub and install the new rotor

• Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face (the flat surface the rotor sits on).
• Spray the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove protective oil, then wipe clean.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 9: Install new pad hardware and prep the bracket

• Snap the new clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit into the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) where the pad “ears” slide on the clips.
• A “pad ear” is the small metal tab on the end of the pad that rides in the clips.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Use an 18mm socket and torque wrench 1/2" to tighten: Torque to 105 Nm (77 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp 6" to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; if it rises near the top, remove a little fluid.
• Tip: Go slow to avoid fluid overflow.

Step 12: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket.
• Set the caliper over the pads and align the guide pin holes.
• Use a 13mm socket to install the guide pin bolts while holding the pins with a 15mm wrench.
• Tighten with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts

• Install the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car enough that the tire just touches the ground and won’t spin.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2" with a 22mm lug nut socket to tighten in a star pattern: Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs)

Step 14: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–13 on the other rear wheel.
• Replace pads and rotors in pairs (both rear sides).

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✅ After Repair

• With the car on the ground, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm.
• Road test at low speed first; verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bed-in (break-in): do 6–10 moderate stops from 40→10 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $320-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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