🔧 TITAN - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

This job replaces your rear brake pads and rotors, which restores braking power and stops vibration or grinding. On your TITAN, the rear parking brake is typically a mechanical drum-in-hat style inside the rotor, so you’ll also check/adjust it so the new rotors slide on and the parking brake holds correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the truck on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels and release the parking brake before rotor removal.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the brake caliper hang by the hose; support it with a hook.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ If brake fluid rises near “MAX” when compressing pistons, remove a little with a suction tool.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Phillips screwdriver #3
• Flat trim/pry tool
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Needle-nose pliers
• Small pick tool
• Brake parts cleaner
• High-temp silicone brake grease
• Threadlocker (blue)
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2
• Brake lubricant (high-temp silicone) - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the transmission to P, and place wheel chocks at the front tires.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released before trying to remove the rear rotors.
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s already near MAX, plan to remove a little before compressing pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the recommended lift point, then set the frame/axle safely on jack stands.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed on the rear; position yourself for clear access.
• Remove the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket (common) and a 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Caliper “slide pins” are the moving bolts.

Step 3: Remove old pads and inspect slide pins

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flat trim/pry tool if they’re stuck.
• Remove the slide pins from the bracket, wipe clean with shop towels, and check the rubber boots for tears.
• Apply a thin coat of high-temp silicone brake grease to the slide pins and reinstall them.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 19mm socket. If yours are different, also try a 17mm socket.
• Use a 1/2" drive breaker bar if the bolts are tight.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them using a Phillips screwdriver #3.
• Pull the rotor straight off. If it’s stuck, tap around the hat area with a rubber mallet.
• If the rotor won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it; proceed to Step 6.

Step 6: Back off (loosen) the parking brake shoe adjuster if needed

• Find the access slot in the backing plate (behind the rotor). Use a small pick tool or flat trim/pry tool to move the star-wheel adjuster.
• Back the adjuster off a little at a time until the rotor slides off.
• Small moves make a big difference.

Step 7: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and spray with brake parts cleaner.
• Clean the new rotor friction surfaces using brake parts cleaner and shop towels.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• If equipped, reinstall rotor retaining screws using a Phillips screwdriver #3.

Step 8: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Remove the old pad hardware clips from the bracket using needle-nose pliers or a flat trim/pry tool.
• Clean the bracket pad lands with a wire brush, then install the new clips.
• Apply a very thin layer of high-temp silicone brake grease where pads slide on the clips.
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Apply threadlocker (blue) to the bracket bolts.
• Install and tighten bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper

• Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to press the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood while compressing.
• Reinstall the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Adjust the parking brake shoe clearance (if rotor drag is wrong)

• Rotate the rotor by hand.
• If the rotor drags heavily, back the star-wheel off slightly using a small pick tool.
• If the rotor spins too freely and the parking brake is weak, tighten the star-wheel slightly.
• Goal: light, even contact (slight drag), not tight.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

• Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the truck using a floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times before driving until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Test at low speed first: confirm normal braking, no pulling, and no grinding.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: do several moderate stops from 30–40 mph with cool-down between stops.
• Recheck for leaks and recheck lug nut torque after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $340-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.