🔧 Rear Brake Pads & Rotors - Replacement

Your rear brakes use a caliper, pads, and rotor on each side. This job is straightforward if the caliper slides freely and the parking brake is released. Replacing the rotors at the same time gives you a clean braking surface and helps avoid noise or vibration.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and keep the transmission in Park with the parking brake released before removing the rear wheels.
• Block the front wheels before lifting the rear of your Tundra.
• Use jack stands under the frame. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• Rear brake parts can be hot after driving. Let them cool first.
• Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• There is no battery disconnect required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated for truck weight)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
• Flat screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord or mechanic's wire
• Brake cleaner
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a flat surface and chock the front wheels.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck with a 21mm socket.
• Raise the rear and support both sides with jack stands.
• Remove both rear wheels.
• Keep the parking brake released so the rotors can come off.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the wheel and inspect the brake assembly

• Use a 21mm socket to remove the rear wheel nuts and take off the wheel.
• Look at the caliper, pads, rotor, and brake hose for leaks or damage.
• Tip: Take a quick photo first.

Step 2: Remove the caliper

• Use a 14mm socket to remove the caliper slide bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket carefully.
• Hang the caliper with a bungee cord or mechanic's wire. Do not let it hang by the hose.

Step 3: Remove the brake pads and hardware

• Slide the old brake pads out of the bracket.
• Remove the pad clips and hardware with a flat screwdriver if needed.
• Clean the bracket contact points with a wire brush and brake cleaner.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 17mm socket to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the bracket from the axle housing area.
• Torque on reassembly: 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it sticks, tap the rotor hat lightly with a rubber mallet or use a flat screwdriver through the access slot.
• Clean rust off the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove protective oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• If it has retaining screws, install them and snug them down.
• Tip: Keep the rotor face clean.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Install the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
• Use a 17mm socket to tighten the bracket bolts.
• Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool (specialty) to push the piston back into the caliper.
• Compress it slowly and evenly.
• Make sure the brake fluid reservoir does not overflow.
• Tip: Watch the brake fluid level.

Step 9: Install the new pads

• Install the new hardware clips if included.
• Place the new pads into the bracket.
• Apply a very thin coat of brake grease to the pad ears and slide points only if needed. Do not get grease on the pad material or rotor.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new pads.
• Use a 14mm socket to install and tighten the slide bolts.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Use a 21mm socket to snug them in a star pattern.
• Lower the truck, then finish tightening.
• Torque the lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Repeat on the other side

• Replace the other rear rotor and pads using the same steps.
• Always do brakes in pairs.

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal several times before moving the truck. The pedal will feel soft at first, then firm up.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
• Expect a short pad break-in period. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles if possible.
• Listen for rubbing or clicking. Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$360 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$490 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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