🔧 Crosstrek - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the rear brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. This restores braking performance and prevents noise/pulsation when rotors are worn, rusted, or warped.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Stock rear disc brakes with drum-in-hat parking brake.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting, or the rotors may not come off.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels so the car cannot roll.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the brake caliper hang by the hose—support it with a hanger.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Watch the brake fluid level—pushing pistons in can overflow the reservoir.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Flathead screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and release the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/4 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check brake fluid level; if it’s near MAX, be ready to remove a little to prevent overflow.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack at the rear jacking point, then set the car on jack stands.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (do not stretch the hose)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear brakes; just work straight on.
• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a brake caliper hanger hook (a hook that holds the caliper so the hose isn’t carrying weight).

Step 3: Remove the old pads and inspect

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Check the pad wear; uneven wear can mean sticky slide pins.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck from rust, tap around the rotor “hat” with a rubber mallet and try again.
• If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it—confirm the parking brake is fully released. Light taps work better than hard hits.

Step 6: Clean the hub and prep the new rotor

• Clean rust off the hub face using a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (avoid wheel studs).
• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner (use brake cleaner) and wipe clean to remove shipping oil.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Service the slide pins (prevents uneven wear)

• Remove each slide pin from the bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off, then apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease.
• Reinsert the pins and confirm they glide smoothly.

Step 8: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install the new pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket.
• Apply a very thin coat of silicone brake grease where the pad “ears” touch the clips (not on the pad friction material).
• Slide the new pads into place.

Step 9: Reinstall the bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Tighten using a 17mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then compress the piston slowly using a C-clamp (6" minimum).
• A C-clamp is a screw clamp that pushes the piston back in evenly.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood for overflow.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

• Set the caliper over the new pads and align the slide bolt holes.
• Install and tighten the slide bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, press the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons to the pads.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal feels normal.
• Test drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (recommended): Do 6–8 moderate stops from ~35 mph to 5 mph, with 30–60 seconds between stops to cool. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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