How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Nissan TITAN XD
Step-by-step rear disc brake DIY with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and pad bedding procedure
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Nissan TITAN XD
Step-by-step rear disc brake DIY with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and pad bedding procedure
🔧 TITAN XD - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the rear brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the new pads. This restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage and vibration.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.5 hours
Assumption: your TITAN XD uses rear disc brakes with drum-in-hat parking brake.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground; chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- ⚠️ Support the truck on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Do not inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a mask.
- ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
- ⚠️ Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces; clean with brake cleaner if contaminated.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs range)
- 14mm socket
- 22mm socket
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (high-temp silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a level surface, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
- Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
- Crack the rear lug nuts loose with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the brake fluid reservoir cap (under the hood) and place a shop towel around it in case fluid rises.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper lift point, then set the rear on jack stands.
- Give the truck a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.
Step 2: Remove the rear wheels
- Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
- Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.
Step 3: Remove the rear caliper
- Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper and remove them using a 14mm socket.
- Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
- Hang the caliper using a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire (this supports the caliper so the hose isn’t stressed).
Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
- Remove the pad abutment clips/hardware using a flathead screwdriver if needed.
- Spray the bracket contact areas with brake cleaner and scrub with a wire brush.
Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 22mm socket and breaker bar.
- Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
- Reinstall later and Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Remove the rotor (and check the parking brake inside)
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
- If the rotor is stuck, strike the rotor hat area with a rubber mallet to break rust loose (do not hit the wheel studs).
- If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it—use a flathead screwdriver through the backing plate access slot to back off the star-wheel adjuster slightly.
- Inspect the drum-in-hat parking brake shoes and hardware for delamination, heavy cracks, or missing springs.
Step 7: Clean the hub and install the new rotor
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner so the rotor sits flat.
- Clean the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner and shop towels (removes packing oil).
- Install the new rotor onto the hub.
Step 8: Service the caliper bracket slide pins
- Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
- Wipe old grease off with shop towels, then apply a thin coat of high-temp silicone slide pin grease.
- Reinstall slide pins and confirm they move smoothly (they should glide in/out by hand).
Step 9: Install new hardware and pads
- Install new pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket.
- Install the new pads into the bracket (they should slide freely, not jam).
- If the kit includes shims, install them exactly as the old ones were positioned.
Step 10: Compress the caliper piston
- Before pushing the piston in, check the brake fluid reservoir level (it may rise).
- Use a C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper (this tool squeezes the piston in evenly so the thicker new pads fit).
- Go slow to avoid overflowing the reservoir.
Step 11: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners
- Reinstall the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
- Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side
- Perform the same pad/rotor steps on the other rear wheel.
- Do one side at a time to stay organized.
Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Install the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
- Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
- Do a slow test drive and confirm normal braking with no pulling or grinding.
- Bed-in the pads: perform 6-10 medium stops from 35-45 mph with cool-down time between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
- Recheck for leaks and re-torque lug nuts after 25-50 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $430-$600 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















