Howtoo Logo
2016 Nissan TITAN XD
2016 Nissan TITAN XD
S - V8 5.6L
Bryan specialist avatar

Have a Question? Ask a Specialist

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff

Here is just the beginning of what I can do!

Select one to see me in action

Vehicle Features

Image Vehicle Features

How do I connect my phone to my stereo?

Vehicle Information

Image Vehicle Information

What is my horsepower and torque

Image Recognition

Image Image Recognition

What is this warning light on my dash?

Troubleshooting

Image Troubleshooting

I have a P0300 engine code

Vehicle Recognition

Image Vehicle Recognition

What vehicle is this?

Find shops near you

Image Find shops near you

Find a shop to do this repair

Vehicle Talk

Image Vehicle Talk

What’s your favorite vehicle of all time?

How to replace rear brake pads on Nissan Titan XD

How to replace rear brake pads on Nissan Titan XD

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Nissan TITAN XD

Step-by-step rear disc brake DIY with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and pad bedding procedure

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Nissan TITAN XD

Step-by-step rear disc brake DIY with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and pad bedding procedure

Orion
Orion

🔧 TITAN XD - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the rear brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the new pads. This restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage and vibration.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.5 hours

Assumption: your TITAN XD uses rear disc brakes with drum-in-hat parking brake.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground; chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
  • ⚠️ Support the truck on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Do not inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a mask.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
  • ⚠️ Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces; clean with brake cleaner if contaminated.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs range)
  • 14mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease (high-temp silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on a level surface, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
  • Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Crack the rear lug nuts loose with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Open the brake fluid reservoir cap (under the hood) and place a shop towel around it in case fluid rises.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

  • Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper lift point, then set the rear on jack stands.
  • Give the truck a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

  • Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
  • Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper

  • Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper and remove them using a 14mm socket.
  • Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
  • Hang the caliper using a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire (this supports the caliper so the hose isn’t stressed).

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
  • Remove the pad abutment clips/hardware using a flathead screwdriver if needed.
  • Spray the bracket contact areas with brake cleaner and scrub with a wire brush.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 22mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
  • Reinstall later and Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Remove the rotor (and check the parking brake inside)

  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
  • If the rotor is stuck, strike the rotor hat area with a rubber mallet to break rust loose (do not hit the wheel studs).
  • If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it—use a flathead screwdriver through the backing plate access slot to back off the star-wheel adjuster slightly.
  • Inspect the drum-in-hat parking brake shoes and hardware for delamination, heavy cracks, or missing springs.

Step 7: Clean the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner so the rotor sits flat.
  • Clean the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner and shop towels (removes packing oil).
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 8: Service the caliper bracket slide pins

  • Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
  • Wipe old grease off with shop towels, then apply a thin coat of high-temp silicone slide pin grease.
  • Reinstall slide pins and confirm they move smoothly (they should glide in/out by hand).

Step 9: Install new hardware and pads

  • Install new pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket.
  • Install the new pads into the bracket (they should slide freely, not jam).
  • If the kit includes shims, install them exactly as the old ones were positioned.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

  • Before pushing the piston in, check the brake fluid reservoir level (it may rise).
  • Use a C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper (this tool squeezes the piston in evenly so the thicker new pads fit).
  • Go slow to avoid overflowing the reservoir.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners

  • Reinstall the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
  • Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side

  • Perform the same pad/rotor steps on the other rear wheel.
  • Do one side at a time to stay organized.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Install the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
  • Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • Do a slow test drive and confirm normal braking with no pulling or grinding.
  • Bed-in the pads: perform 6-10 medium stops from 35-45 mph with cool-down time between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
  • Recheck for leaks and re-torque lug nuts after 25-50 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
Menu
Videos
Earn