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2016 Nissan Pathfinder
2013 - 2020 Nissan Pathfinder
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2016 pathfinder Brake / Rotor guide ( how to change / replace )

2016 pathfinder Brake / Rotor guide ( how to change / replace )

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Nissan Pathfinder

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth brake job for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Nissan Pathfinder

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth brake job for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Pathfinder - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors, then install new rear pads. This restores braking performance and stops grinding/pulsation caused by worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Common fastener sizes are listed; verify your bolt head sizes before forcing a tool.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a level surface; support the rear with jack stands before going underneath.
  • ⚠️ Chock the front wheels; your Pathfinder can roll when the rear is lifted.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • ⚠️ If your Pathfinder uses a drum-in-hat parking brake, keep the parking brake released during rotor removal/installation.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lb range)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • C-clamp (6")
  • Brake caliper hanger hook
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Micrometer or vernier caliper
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Catch pan
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
  • Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top) so fluid can rise when you compress pistons.
  • Tip: Take a photo of each side first.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

  • Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jacking point.
  • Set the rear on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
  • Remove both rear wheels with a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (the clamp)

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear work; position yourself for clear access.
  • Remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Lift the caliper off the pads and hang it from the suspension using a brake caliper hanger hook.
  • Tip: Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware

  • Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
  • Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
  • Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket (the pad holder)

  • Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
  • Set the bracket aside.
  • On reassembly: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
  • If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat evenly with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
  • If it still won’t come off, make sure the parking brake is fully released and lightly tap again.
  • Tip: Rust makes rotors “glue” to hubs.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the rotor sits flat.
  • Spray-clean the new rotor braking surfaces using brake cleaner spray (removes shipping oil).
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.
  • To hold it tight while you work, install one lug nut backward by hand (optional) and snug it with a 21mm socket.

Step 7: Service slide pins and reinstall the bracket

  • Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand (they’re the smooth pins the caliper “floats” on).
  • Wipe them clean, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone).
  • Reinstall the caliper bracket and tighten with a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
  • Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Install new hardware and pads

  • Install new pad clips into the bracket by hand.
  • Apply a very light film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” touch the clips.
  • Install the new pads into the bracket.
  • Tip: Grease on pads/rotor ruins braking—keep it off.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper

  • Place the old inner pad against the caliper piston.
  • Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove fluid with a clean turkey baster if it nears the top (use your catch pan).
  • Slide the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Torque to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
  • Lower the vehicle to the ground using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (10–200 ft-lb range).
  • Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
  • Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • Start the engine and confirm the pedal remains firm.
  • Test-drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or vibration.
  • Brake bed-in (recommended): make 5–8 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, letting brakes cool 30–60 seconds between stops.
  • Recheck for leaks and recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench (10–200 ft-lb range).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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