How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Nissan Pathfinder
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth brake job for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Nissan Pathfinder
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth brake job for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Pathfinder - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors, then install new rear pads. This restores braking performance and stops grinding/pulsation caused by worn pads or warped rotors.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
Assumption: Common fastener sizes are listed; verify your bolt head sizes before forcing a tool.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a level surface; support the rear with jack stands before going underneath.
- ⚠️ Chock the front wheels; your Pathfinder can roll when the rear is lifted.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
- ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- ⚠️ If your Pathfinder uses a drum-in-hat parking brake, keep the parking brake released during rotor removal/installation.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lb range)
- Flathead screwdriver
- C-clamp (6")
- Brake caliper hanger hook
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Micrometer or vernier caliper
- Brake cleaner spray
- Catch pan
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
- Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top) so fluid can rise when you compress pistons.
- Tip: Take a photo of each side first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jacking point.
- Set the rear on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
- Remove both rear wheels with a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (the clamp)
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear work; position yourself for clear access.
- Remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off the pads and hang it from the suspension using a brake caliper hanger hook.
- Tip: Never let the caliper hang by the hose.
Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware
- Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
- Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
- Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket (the pad holder)
- Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
- Set the bracket aside.
- On reassembly: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the rotor
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
- If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat evenly with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
- If it still won’t come off, make sure the parking brake is fully released and lightly tap again.
- Tip: Rust makes rotors “glue” to hubs.
Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the rotor sits flat.
- Spray-clean the new rotor braking surfaces using brake cleaner spray (removes shipping oil).
- Install the new rotor onto the hub.
- To hold it tight while you work, install one lug nut backward by hand (optional) and snug it with a 21mm socket.
Step 7: Service slide pins and reinstall the bracket
- Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand (they’re the smooth pins the caliper “floats” on).
- Wipe them clean, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone).
- Reinstall the caliper bracket and tighten with a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
- Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Install new hardware and pads
- Install new pad clips into the bracket by hand.
- Apply a very light film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” touch the clips.
- Install the new pads into the bracket.
- Tip: Grease on pads/rotor ruins braking—keep it off.
Step 9: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper
- Place the old inner pad against the caliper piston.
- Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove fluid with a clean turkey baster if it nears the top (use your catch pan).
- Slide the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Torque to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (10–200 ft-lb range).
- Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
- Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
- Start the engine and confirm the pedal remains firm.
- Test-drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or vibration.
- Brake bed-in (recommended): make 5–8 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, letting brakes cool 30–60 seconds between stops.
- Recheck for leaks and recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench (10–200 ft-lb range).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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