🔧 Rio - Rear Brake Pads/Shoes & Rotor/Drum Replacement

This job replaces the rear friction parts that stop your car: either disc brakes (pads + rotors) or drum brakes (shoes + drums). Your Rio may have either setup on the rear, so I’m giving both procedures—use the one that matches what you see when the wheel is off.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-4.0 hours

Assumption: Stock rear brakes; follow “Rear Disc” or “Rear Drum” based on what’s installed.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a level surface and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; brake dust is irritating.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let them cool before touching rotors/drums.
• 🧱 Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• 🚫 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• 🧪 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• Socket set (10mm–19mm)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm box wrench
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Drip pan
• Brake spoon/adjusting tool (specialty)
• Small pick tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set (if Rear Disc) - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors (if Rear Disc) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (if Rear Disc) - Qty: 1
• Rear brake shoes set (if Rear Drum) - Qty: 1
• Rear brake drums (if Rear Drum) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear drum hardware kit (springs/hold-downs) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
• High-temp anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in 1st gear, and set the parking brake ON until you confirm which rear brake type you have.
• Break the rear lug nuts loose 1/4 turn using a 21mm socket before lifting the car.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands under solid rear lift points.
• Remove both rear wheels so you can compare left vs right as you work.
• Tip: Do one side at a time.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify rear brake type (Disc vs Drum)

• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• If you see a caliper squeezing a shiny disc, you have Rear Disc.
• If you see a mostly closed round “can,” you have Rear Drum.

Step 2A (Rear Disc): Remove caliper and pads

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear; position yourself for access.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket (slide pins are the small bolts holding the caliper to the bracket).
• Lift the caliper off and hang it with a bungee cord or mechanics wire so it doesn’t pull on the hose.
• Remove the pads and any shims/clips by hand or with a flathead screwdriver.

Step 3A (Rear Disc): Remove caliper bracket and rotor

• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Torque spec (install later): Torque to 75–95 Nm (55–70 ft-lbs) for bracket bolts.
• Remove the rotor. If it’s stuck, spray hub area with brake cleaner spray, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet, and clean the hub face with a wire brush.

Step 4A (Rear Disc): Prep and install new rotor

• Clean the new rotor faces with brake cleaner spray to remove packing oil.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (not the rotor braking surface).
• Install the new rotor and hold it in place with 1 lug nut hand-tight (use the wheel and 21mm socket briefly if needed).

Step 5A (Rear Disc): Service slide pins and install bracket + hardware

• Remove the slide pins from the bracket by hand; clean and re-grease with brake lubricant (slide pins help the caliper move smoothly).
• Install new pad clips from the hardware kit (if included).
• Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket.
• Torque spec: Torque to 75–95 Nm (55–70 ft-lbs) for bracket bolts.

Step 6A (Rear Disc): Compress caliper piston and install new pads

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood (place a rag around it).
• Compress the caliper piston using a C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty) until fully seated.
• If fluid rises near the top, siphon a little into a drip pan (do not overflow).
• Install the new pads in the bracket.

Step 7A (Rear Disc): Reinstall caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket (hold the pin with a 14mm box wrench if it tries to spin).
• Torque spec: Torque to 25–35 Nm (18–26 ft-lbs) for slide pin bolts.

Step 2B (Rear Drum): Release parking brake and remove drum

• Make sure the parking brake is OFF (drums won’t come off if it’s applied).
• Pull the drum straight off by hand. If stuck, tap around the drum face with a rubber mallet.
• If it still won’t come off, use a flathead screwdriver to remove the rubber access plug (if equipped), then back off the star wheel adjuster using a brake spoon/adjusting tool (specialty).
• Tip: Take a photo before disassembly.

Step 3B (Rear Drum): Remove shoes and hardware

• Use needle-nose pliers and a small pick tool to remove the return springs carefully (springs are under tension).
• Remove the hold-down springs/pins and lift the shoes out.
• Keep parts laid out in order so you can match left/right orientation.

Step 4B (Rear Drum): Clean and prep backing plate contact points

• Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and catch runoff in a drip pan.
• Use a wire brush to clean the 6 shoe “pads” on the backing plate (where shoes rub).
• Apply a tiny dab of brake lubricant to those contact pads only (keep grease off shoe lining).

Step 5B (Rear Drum): Install new shoes and new hardware

• Install the parking brake lever onto the correct new shoe if your setup uses one (move clip/pin over using needle-nose pliers).
• Install shoes, hold-down pins/springs, then return springs using needle-nose pliers and small pick tool.
• Transfer and reinstall the star-wheel adjuster; make sure it turns freely.

Step 6B (Rear Drum): Adjust shoes and reinstall drum

• Turn the star wheel outward with a brake spoon/adjusting tool (specialty) until the drum just starts to drag slightly when you spin it by hand.
• Install the drum. If it won’t fit, back the adjuster off a little.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the car to the ground with the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque spec: Torque to 90–110 Nm (66–81 ft-lbs) for lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Test in a safe area at low speed: gentle stops first, then normal stops.
• Brake bed-in (pads/rotors): 6–10 moderate stops from 35–10 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops.
• For drums: set and release the parking brake a few times, then re-check for proper hold on a slight incline.
• Listen for grinding or pulling; re-check your work if anything feels off.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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