🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, replace the rear brake pads, and swap the rear rotors. Worn pads/rotors can cause noise, vibration, longer stopping distance, and uneven braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.5 hours

Assumption: Steps include both rear-caliper styles (push-in piston vs rotate-in piston) used on Accord rear brakes.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and chock the front wheels.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (it can pop the piston out).
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Parking brake must be fully released before compressing rear caliper pistons.
• ⚠️ If your Accord has an Electronic Parking Brake (EPB), do not force the piston—use EPB service mode before pushing pistons back.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" and 1/2"
• 19mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Caliper hanger hook
• C-clamp (6-inch)
• Rear disc brake piston tool kit (specialty)
• Phillips #3 screwdriver
• Manual impact driver (specialty)
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Micrometer or vernier caliper (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin boots (optional if torn) - Qty: 1 set
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Medium-strength threadlocker - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and release the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s near MAX, be ready to remove a little fluid (compressing pistons raises the level).
• If equipped with EPB: place EPB in service mode using a scan tool (specialty) before piston compression.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the car

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands at the approved rear support points.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (pads stay in bracket)

• Turn the steering wheel isn’t needed; you’re working at the rear.
• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 12mm socket (some setups use 14mm socket).
• Lift the caliper off and hang it with a caliper hanger hook.
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the brake pads out by hand.
• Remove the stainless abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “shelves” with a wire brush and spray with brake parts cleaner.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 14mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• During reassembly, apply medium-strength threadlocker to bracket bolts if they did not come pre-coated.
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) for the caliper bracket bolts.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has a retaining screw, remove it using a Phillips #3 screwdriver.
• If it’s stuck/stripped, use a manual impact driver (specialty) to break it loose.
• Pull the rotor straight off. If it’s stuck to the hub, tap around the hat with a rubber mallet.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean rust off the hub face using a wire brush. A clean hub helps prevent pedal pulsation.
• Spray the new rotor with brake parts cleaner to remove protective oil, then wipe clean.
• Install the new rotor. Reinstall the retaining screw (if equipped) using a Phillips #3 screwdriver snugly.

Step 7: Service the slide pins (important for even braking)

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off and inspect boots for tears.
• Apply a thin coat of high-temp silicone brake grease and reinstall pins.
• Sticky pins cause uneven pad wear.

Step 8: Reinstall the bracket and new hardware

• Reinstall the caliper bracket over the new rotor using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Install new abutment clips from the hardware kit.
• Apply a very light smear of high-temp silicone brake grease on the pad ears where they touch the clips (not on pad friction material).

Step 9: Compress the rear caliper piston

• Remove the caliper reservoir cap under the hood if needed to prevent pressure buildup.
• Check piston face:
• If the piston face is smooth/flat, compress it using a C-clamp (6-inch).
• If the piston face has two notches, it is a rotate-in style—use a rear disc brake piston tool kit (specialty) (this tool turns the piston while pushing it in).
• Compress until the piston is fully seated and level.

Step 10: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Install caliper slide bolts using a 12mm socket (or 14mm socket if equipped).
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for the caliper slide bolts.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) for lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• With engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm normal operation.
• Test drive at low speed first and confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bed-in (break-in): do 6–10 medium stops from 35–10 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.
• Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.0-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.