🔧 HR-V - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, taking off the rear brake calipers, replacing the pads and rotors, then reassembling everything to Honda torque specs. Rear brakes wear from normal driving, and rotors should be replaced when worn, rust-pitted, or below minimum thickness.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your HR-V on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.
• 🛑 If your HR-V has an electronic parking brake, stop and tell me—rear caliper service is different.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2", 20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 19mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8")
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• Phillips #3 screwdriver
• Impact driver (handheld) (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Rear brake piston wind-back tool kit (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Flat trim/pry tool
• Micrometer or brake rotor thickness gauge (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, steering straight, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• 🅿️ Release the parking brake fully (rear brakes can’t be serviced with it applied).
• 🔧 Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• 🧴 Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap loosely (this helps when retracting pistons). Do not spill fluid.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the body securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads)

• Turn the steering wheel slightly if needed for access (rear access is usually straight-on).
• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts (usually 12mm or 14mm head).
• Remove the slide pin bolts using a ratchet (3/8") and 12mm socket (or 14mm socket if yours matches).
• Lift the caliper off and hang it from the suspension spring using a brake caliper hanger hook (specialty). Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 3: Remove the brake pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand; use a flat trim/pry tool if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flat trim/pry tool.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” with brake cleaner and a wire brush (this is where pads slide).

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket (the frame the pads sit in)

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a breaker bar (1/2") and 14mm socket.
• Set the bracket aside.
• On reassembly: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has Phillips set screws, remove them using a Phillips #3 screwdriver.
• If the screws are stuck/stripping, use a impact driver (handheld) (specialty) to break them loose.
• Pull the rotor off. If it’s rust-stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to free it.
• Clean the hub face (where the rotor sits) using a wire brush, then apply a thin wipe of anti-seize compound to prevent future sticking.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor surfaces with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• If set screws are reused/installed, snug them with a Phillips #3 screwdriver (they are just retainers, not what holds the wheel on).

Step 7: Service the slide pins and reinstall the bracket

• Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket (they’re the smooth pins the caliper moves on).
• Wipe old grease off and apply fresh brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
• Reinstall the bracket and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten with a torque wrench (1/2", 20-150 ft-lbs range) and 14mm socket: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install new pad clips/hardware into the bracket.
• Apply a very light film of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) where pads touch the clips (not on friction material).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Retract the rear caliper piston (wind-back)

• On many Honda rear calipers, the piston must be pushed in while turning (because the parking brake mechanism is built in).
• Use a rear brake piston wind-back tool kit (specialty) to rotate and press the piston in slowly until it seats.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level while doing this; remove excess if it gets too high.
• Go slow to avoid damaging the piston seal.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads and align the slide pin bolt holes.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a ratchet (3/8") and 12mm socket (or 14mm socket as equipped).
• Tighten with a torque wrench (1/2", 20-150 ft-lbs range) (use an adapter if needed): Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the HR-V to the ground using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2", 20-150 ft-lbs range) and 19mm socket: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 Pump the brake pedal 8–12 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads). Do this before shifting into gear.
• 🧴 Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• 🛞 Test at low speed first, then do a careful road test for noise/vibration.
• 🔥 Pad bedding (break-in): do 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph to ~5 mph, with 30 seconds between stops; avoid hard stops for the first 150–200 miles.
• 🔍 Recheck for leaks and re-torque lug nuts after 50–100 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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