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2015 Toyota Highlander
2014 - 2019 Toyota Highlander
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How to replace rear Brakes and Rotors on 2015 Toyota Highlander

How to replace rear Brakes and Rotors on 2015 Toyota Highlander

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
17mm
17mm
Socket
or (21/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and parking brake notes for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and parking brake notes for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rear brake rotors on your Highlander. The rear rotor also contains the parking brake drum surface, so the parking brake must be released before removing the rotor.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
  • ⚠️ Use jack stands before putting any part of your body near the wheel area.
  • ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing the rear rotors. Your Highlander uses parking brake shoes inside the rear rotor hat.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the rear caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint. Wipe spills immediately.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 21mm lug nut socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • Torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs
  • Rear brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
  • Flat blade screwdriver
  • Rubber mallet
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Highlander on level ground.
  • Shift to Park.
  • Do not set the parking brake. The rear parking brake shoes sit inside the rear rotor.
  • Place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
  • Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is very full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the calipers.
  • A caliper is the clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor to stop the vehicle.
  • A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel.
  • A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

  • Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
  • Do this while the tires are still on the ground.
  • Do not remove them yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear

  • Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Highlander at the rear center jacking point.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper rear support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Use your hands to lightly shake the vehicle. It should feel stable before you continue.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper

  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the two rear caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Slide the caliper off the bracket.
  • Hang the caliper with a brake caliper hanger hook.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
  • Protect the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Rear Brake Pads

  • Use your hands or a flat blade screwdriver to remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket.
  • Note how the brake pad wear indicator is positioned before removing the pads.
  • The wear indicator is the small metal tab that squeals when pads are worn out.

Step 6: Remove the Rear Caliper Bracket

  • Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two rear caliper bracket bolts.
  • Remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle.
  • The bracket is the metal frame that holds the brake pads in position.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

  • Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
  • Pull the rotor straight off by hand.
  • If the rotor is stuck, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet.
  • If it still will not move, the parking brake shoes may be holding it. Use a flat blade screwdriver through the rotor access hole to slightly back off the parking brake adjuster.
  • Do not pry hard against the backing plate.
  • Rust makes rotors stick.

Step 8: Clean the Hub Surface

  • Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
  • Spray the area with brake cleaner spray.
  • Wipe the hub clean with a shop towel.
  • A clean hub helps the new rotor sit flat and prevents brake vibration.

Step 9: Install the New Rear Rotor

  • Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray.
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.
  • If the rotor feels tight over the parking brake shoes, remove it and slightly back off the parking brake adjuster with a flat blade screwdriver.
  • The rotor should slide on without force.

Step 10: Service the Caliper Bracket

  • Use a flat blade screwdriver to remove the old pad hardware clips from the caliper bracket.
  • Use a wire brush and brake cleaner spray to clean the bracket where the clips sit.
  • Install the new rear brake hardware clips by hand.
  • Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant only where the pad ears touch the hardware.
  • Do not get lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor surface.

Step 11: Reinstall the Rear Caliper Bracket

  • Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
  • Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs to tighten the bracket bolts.
  • Torque to 79 Nm (58 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

  • Install the new rear brake pads into the bracket by hand.
  • Make sure the pads slide smoothly in the hardware clips.
  • If they bind, remove them and recheck the hardware position.
  • Pads should move freely.

Step 13: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

  • Use a rear brake caliper compression tool to slowly push the caliper piston back into the caliper.
  • The piston is the round metal part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad.
  • Compress it slowly and watch the brake fluid level under the hood.
  • If the fluid rises near the top, remove a small amount before continuing.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

  • Slide the caliper over the new pads.
  • Start both slide pin bolts by hand.
  • Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs to tighten the slide pin bolts.
  • Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the other rear wheel.
  • Always replace rear brake pads and rotors in pairs.

Step 16: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Install the rear wheels by hand.
  • Thread the lug nuts on by hand first.
  • Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower and Torque the Wheels

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Lower your Highlander until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Before moving the vehicle, press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
  • ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.
  • ✅ Test the parking brake. It should hold the vehicle securely without dragging when released.
  • ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area and test the brakes at low speed first.
  • ✅ Bed in the new pads and rotors with several gentle stops from 30-40 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
  • ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless it is an emergency.
  • ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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