🔧 Forte - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, unbolting the rear calipers, replacing the pads and rotors, then reassembling everything with the correct torque. New pads and rotors restore safe stopping power and prevent noise, vibration, and uneven braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels; you’ll release the parking brake for this job.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ If brake fluid is near the MAX line, remove a little before compressing pistons.
• ⚠️ Let brakes cool completely; rotors can be very hot.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in Park, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen rear wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the car using a 21mm socket.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. If it’s very full, remove a small amount so it won’t overflow when you compress the caliper piston.
• After lifting the rear, release the parking brake so the rear rotors can come off.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) and give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
• Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (the squeezing part)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear brakes; just position yourself for access.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the pads.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord so it doesn’t dangle by the brake hose.
• Tip: Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware clips

• Slide the pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless “hardware clips” (the thin metal pad guides) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad contact areas using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket (the pad holder)

• Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• Torque spec (install later): Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them using a Phillips screwdriver.
• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If stuck, thread two lug nuts on a few turns to protect the studs, then tap the rotor hat with a hammer (16 oz) until it breaks free.
• Clean the hub face using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove shipping oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• If equipped, reinstall rotor retaining screw using a Phillips screwdriver (snug only; do not over-tighten).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new hardware

• Reinstall the bracket and hand-start both bolts.
• Tighten using a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
• Install the new hardware clips from your hardware kit into the bracket (they snap into place).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” touch the hardware clips.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face, then compress the piston slowly using a C-clamp (6" minimum).
• A caliper piston is the round part that pushes the pad into the rotor.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; don’t let it overflow.
• Tip: Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Slide the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs)
• If the slide pins feel dry or sticky, remove them, wipe clean, and apply a light coat of brake caliper grease (silicone) before reinstalling.

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear side

• Do the same steps on the other rear wheel.
• Tip: One side at a time prevents mix-ups.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm before driving.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• With the engine running, test the brakes at very low speed in a safe area.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, allowing light cooling between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 150–200 miles.
• Listen for grinding or metal-on-metal sounds; if heard, stop and recheck your work.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$390 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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