🔧 Wrangler - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, swapping the rear brake pads and rotors, and reassembling everything with the correct torque. Worn pads/rotors can cause noise, vibration, longer stopping distances, and uneven braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and chock the front wheels.
• ⚠️ Support the axle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake RELEASED during rotor removal (your Wrangler uses a drum-in-hat parking brake inside the rear rotor).
• ⚠️ Do not inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a mask.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a strap.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart (only if level is low)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and turn the engine off.
• 🧱 Chock both front wheels securely using wheel chocks.
• 🧯 Release the parking brake fully (important for rotor removal).
• 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; it may rise when you compress pistons. Don’t overfill.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen (do not remove) the rear wheel lug nuts.

Step 2: Lift and support the rear axle

• Lift the rear using a floor jack under the axle housing.
• Set the axle onto jack stands and lightly shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove both rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel straight (rear is fixed, but this helps your working position).
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the two caliper guide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Never let the caliper dangle by the hose.

Step 4: Remove the pads and caliper bracket

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket (a flat-blade screwdriver can help gently pry).
• Caliper bracket = the metal frame that holds the pads and the caliper.
• Use an 18mm socket with a 1/2" breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
• Reinstall later and Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the wheel studs.
• If it’s stuck, tap around the rotor hat using a rubber mallet (avoid hitting wheel studs).
• If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it—confirm the parking brake is fully released, then tap again with the rubber mallet.

Step 6: Clean and prep the hub and bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face (where the rotor sits).
• Clean the bracket pad contact areas and remove old hardware clips.
• Spray the bracket and hub area with brake parts cleaner and wipe with shop rags.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor’s surfaces using brake parts cleaner and shop rags (removes packing oil).
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware

• Install new pad hardware clips from the rear brake hardware kit onto the bracket.
• Position the bracket over the rotor and start bolts by hand.
• Tighten using an 18mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir level again (it may rise).
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the caliper piston back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and smoothly. If it won’t compress, stop and re-check for binding.

Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Apply a thin layer of high-temp silicone brake grease to pad “ears” where they contact the clips (do not get grease on pad or rotor surfaces).
• Slide the new pads into the bracket.
• Lower the caliper over the pads/rotor.
• Install the guide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the axle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 130 Nm (95 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Restore pedal feel

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 8–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid only if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal feels normal (not sinking).
• 🔍 Check both rear calipers for abnormal rubbing, leaks, or loose hardware.
• 🛣️ Perform a careful test drive and bed-in the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30–40 mph to ~5 mph, with cool-down time between stops.
• 🛑 Re-check lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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