🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, unbolting the rear brake calipers, swapping the brake pads, and replacing the rear rotors. This restores safe stopping power and fixes grinding, pulsation, or thin pads/warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and support your Accord with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• 🛑 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Brake parts get hot—let everything cool before touching.
• 🛑 Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• Phillips #3 screwdriver
• Hand impact driver (specialty)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and release the parking brake (rear brakes must be free).
• Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap sitting loosely on top (do not remove it completely).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack at the correct rear jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands placed under the rear support points.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Inspect the caliper and hose routing

• Look at the rubber brake hose and ABS wire routing so you can put everything back the same way.
• Check for fluid leaks around the caliper and hose fitting.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (do not let it hang)

• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord to the suspension spring. Never hang by the hose.
• Torque on install: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware clips

• Slide the inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket (if equipped) and keep note of their positions.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” (where the pad ears slide) using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• Torque on install: Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them using a Phillips #3 screwdriver.
• If the screws are stuck, use a hand impact driver (specialty) to break them loose (this tool turns while you strike it to loosen seized screws).
• Pull the rotor off the hub.
• If the rotor is stuck from rust, tap around the rotor hat with controlled hits using the side of a breaker bar handle (or firm palm strikes) while pulling outward.

Step 8: Clean the hub face (prevents pedal pulsation)

• Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
• Wipe it dry with shop towels. Clean and flat hub = smooth braking.

Step 9: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and wipe with shop towels (removes shipping oil).
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• If your rotor uses retaining screws, reinstall them snug using a Phillips #3 screwdriver (do not overtighten).

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new hardware

• Install new hardware clips onto the bracket (from your rear brake hardware kit).
• Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet, then finish with a torque wrench.
• Torque: Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper (a C-clamp is a screw clamp used to press parts together).
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir level so it doesn’t overflow.

Step 12: Install the new brake pads

• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) to pad contact points where they slide on the hardware clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.

Step 13: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
• Finish tightening with a torque wrench.
• Torque: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• With the car on the ground, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats pads to the rotor.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level and top off with DOT 3 if needed (do not overfill).
• Do a slow test drive in a safe area: confirm no grinding noises and the car brakes straight.
• Pad break-in (recommended): do 6–10 moderate stops from 50 km/h to 15 km/h, with 30–60 seconds between stops to cool.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 50–100 km using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹8,000–₹18,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹4,000–₹12,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹4,000–₹6,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000–₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2–3 hours.

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