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2014 Mazda CX-5
2013 - 2015 Mazda CX-5
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2014 Mazda CX5 Rear Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement

2014 Mazda CX5 Rear Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Ratchet
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2014 Mazda CX-5

Step-by-step rear brake job with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2014 Mazda CX-5

Step-by-step rear brake job with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015

Orion
Orion

🔧 CX-5 - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

This job replaces the rear brake pads and rotors on your CX-5. Worn pads/rotors reduce stopping power and can cause vibration, noise, and longer stopping distances.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Work on a flat surface and chock the front wheels before lifting.
  • 🛑 Release the parking brake before rear brake work, or the rotor may not come off.
  • 🛑 Support the CX-5 with jack stands; never rely only on a jack.
  • 🛑 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
  • 🛑 Brake dust is hazardous; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug wrench or 21mm socket
  • Ratchet
  • Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Breaker bar
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • C-clamp (6-inch) or brake caliper piston tool (specialty)
  • Brake caliper wind-back tool kit (specialty)
  • Wire brush
  • Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
  • Rubber mallet
  • M8 x 1.25 bolts (about 40-50mm long)
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Brake cleaner
  • High-temp silicone brake grease
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels.
  • Release the parking brake fully.
  • Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; fluid may rise when pistons are pushed back.
  • Brake “wind-back” tool rotates and compresses piston.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the rear

  • Use a lug wrench or 21mm socket to loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn.
  • Lift the rear using the floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper rear lift points.
  • Remove the wheels using the lug wrench or 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the caliper

  • Turn the steering wheel slightly if needed for access, then locate the rear caliper slide-pin bolts.
  • Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire.
  • Torque to 25-35 Nm (18-26 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 3: Remove pads and inspect hardware

  • Remove the pads from the bracket by hand or with a flathead screwdriver (gentle prying).
  • Remove the pad clips (hardware) using needle-nose pliers if replacing.
  • Clean the bracket pad lands with brake cleaner, shop towels, and a wire brush.
  • Apply a thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease where the pad ears slide (not on pad friction material).

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Use a 17mm socket with a breaker bar to remove the two bracket bolts.
  • Remove the bracket and set it aside.
  • Torque to 65-90 Nm (48-66 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

  • If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub area with brake cleaner and let it soak a minute.
  • Thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s push-off holes and tighten evenly with a ratchet to press the rotor off.
  • If needed, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
  • If rotor won’t budge, parking brake may be engaged.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush and wipe with brake cleaner and shop towels.
  • Install the new rotor. If it rocks, keep cleaning the hub until it sits flat.
  • Temporarily hold the rotor in place with one lug nut finger-tight using the lug wrench or 21mm socket.

Step 7: Reinstall the bracket

  • Reinstall the caliper bracket and start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten using the 17mm socket and then finish with a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 65-90 Nm (48-66 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Wind back the rear caliper piston

  • Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (under the hood) by hand to prevent pressure buildup.
  • Use a brake caliper wind-back tool kit (specialty) to rotate and compress the piston slowly.
  • This rear piston must be pushed in while turning; keep it straight so it doesn’t jam.
  • Watch the reservoir level and remove fluid if it’s near overflowing using shop towels.

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

  • Install new pad hardware (clips) if included using needle-nose pliers.
  • Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
  • Apply a small amount of high-temp silicone brake grease to the pad backing plate contact points (where the caliper touches).
  • Reinstall the caliper over the pads and start slide-pin bolts by hand.
  • Tighten slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket, then use a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 25-35 Nm (18-26 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a lug wrench or 21mm socket.
  • Lower the CX-5 off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
  • Apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm normal feel.
  • Test drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
  • New pads need gentle stops for 200 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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