How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2012-2018 Ford Focus (DIY Guide) (Trim: SE)
Step-by-step rear brake job with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2012-2018 Ford Focus (DIY Guide) (Trim: SE)
Step-by-step rear brake job with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Focus - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
On your Focus, the rear brake pads clamp the rotor (disc) to slow the car. When pads get thin or rotors get grooved/rusted, replacing both restores safe stopping and prevents noise/vibration.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers can’t retract with it applied).
- ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
- ⚠️ If you lift the rear, chock the front wheels so the car can’t roll.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench
- Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
- Ratchet
- Socket set (8mm-21mm)
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Breaker bar
- Torx T30 bit
- Flathead screwdriver
- C-clamp
- Brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Bungee cord
- Drip pan
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Threadlocker (medium strength) - Qty: 1
- DOT 4 brake fluid - Qty: 1 (small bottle for top-off)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and turn the engine off.
- Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
- Release the parking brake fully.
- Crack the rear lug nuts loose using a lug wrench before lifting.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid level so it doesn’t overflow when pistons are pushed back.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear of the car at the rear jacking point.
- Place jack stands under solid rear support points and lower the car onto them.
- Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before crawling near the wheels.
Step 2: Remove the rear wheels
- Remove lug nuts using a lug wrench and take both rear wheels off.
- Set wheels under the car as an extra safety backup.
Step 3: Remove the caliper (outer piece)
- Turn the steering is not needed; you’re working on the rear.
- Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord (don’t let it hang by the brake hose).
Step 4: Remove the old pads and inspect hardware
- Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck).
- Inspect the pad clips (abutment clips). If they’re badly rusted or bent, replace them if your pad kit includes new ones.
Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket (the carrier)
- Remove the bracket bolts using a 15mm socket and breaker bar.
- Set the bracket aside.
- When reinstalling: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Remove the rotor
- If equipped with a rotor retaining screw, remove it using a Torx T30 bit.
- Pull the rotor off the hub. If it’s stuck from rust, tap the rotor hat area with controlled hits using the handle end of a breaker bar (avoid hitting wheel studs).
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner to help prevent rotor wobble.
Step 7: Install the new rotor
- Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove protective oil.
- Install the rotor onto the hub.
- If your rotor uses a retaining screw, install it using a Torx T30 bit and snug it (it’s not what holds the wheel on).
Step 8: Retract the rear caliper piston (important)
- Rear calipers on your Focus typically use a “screw-in” piston because the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper.
- Use a brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty) (it pushes and turns the piston at the same time) to rotate and press the piston back in.
- Go slowly and keep the piston straight so you don’t tear the boot.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir as you retract the piston—remove a little fluid with a clean syringe if it gets too full.
Step 9: Service slide pins and reinstall the bracket
- Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
- Wipe them clean and apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone) (don’t get grease on pad friction material).
- Reinstall the bracket and apply threadlocker (medium strength) to the bracket bolt threads.
- Tighten bracket bolts using a 15mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Install the new pads
- Install pad clips (if provided) onto the bracket by hand.
- Apply a light film of brake caliper grease (silicone) to pad “ears” where they slide in the clips.
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
- Tip: Pads should slide easily—don’t force them.
Step 11: Reinstall the caliper
- Position the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
- Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the car using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Restore pedal feel before driving
- With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm.
- Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 4 brake fluid if needed.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal stays firm.
- Do a slow test in a safe area: 5-10 mph stops first, then gradually higher.
- Bed-in the pads (recommended): make 8-10 moderate stops from 30 mph to 5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.
- Re-check for leaks, unusual noises, and verify the parking brake holds the car.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$260 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$390 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2018 Ford Focus | Electric | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Focus | SE | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Focus | SEL | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Focus | Titanium | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Focus | ST | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Focus | Electric | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Focus | SE | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Focus | SEL | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Focus | Titanium | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Focus | ST | - | - |
| 2016 Ford Focus | Electric | - | - |
| 2016 Ford Focus | SE | - | - |
| 2016 Ford Focus | Titanium | - | - |
| 2016 Ford Focus | ST | - | - |
| 2015 Ford Focus | Electric | - | - |
| 2015 Ford Focus | SE | - | - |
| 2015 Ford Focus | Titanium | - | - |
| 2015 Ford Focus | ST | - | - |
| 2014 Ford Focus | Electric | - | - |
| 2014 Ford Focus | SE | - | - |
| 2014 Ford Focus | Titanium | - | - |
| 2014 Ford Focus | ST | - | - |
| 2013 Ford Focus | Electric | - | - |
| 2013 Ford Focus | SE | - | - |
| 2013 Ford Focus | Titanium | - | - |
| 2013 Ford Focus | ST | - | - |
| 2012 Ford Focus | Electric | - | - |
| 2012 Ford Focus | SE | - | - |
| 2012 Ford Focus | SEL | - | - |
| 2012 Ford Focus | Titanium | - | - |


















