🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads and rotors restores safe stopping power and reduces noise, vibration, and long stopping distances. You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the caliper and bracket, swap the rotor, then install new pads and reassemble with correct torque.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: your F-150 uses a cable-operated parking brake (no electronic EPB).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a flat surface and use jack stands, not just a jack.
• 🛑 Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• 🛑 Keep the parking brake released while servicing rear brakes.
• 🛑 Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (50-250 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet 1/2"
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Dead-blow hammer
• Brake parts cleaner
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock both front wheels.
• 🧰 Release the parking brake fully (rear brakes can bind if it’s on).
• 🧰 Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket before lifting.
• 🧰 Lift the rear with a floor jack and support the frame/axle securely on jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (outer part)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed—rear access is straight-on.
• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet 1/2" to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the pads.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension with a bungee cord.
• Slide pins are the small caliper guide bolts.

Step 3: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Reinstall later and Torque to 184 Nm (136 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Remove the old rotor

• If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub/rotor center with brake parts cleaner and let it soak briefly.
• Strike the rotor “hat” area with a dead-blow hammer to break it loose.
• Remove the rotor.

Step 5: Clean and prep the hub

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face.
• Wipe clean with brake parts cleaner.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face.
• Thin coat only—keep it off studs.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner to remove packing oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• To hold it square while you work, hand-thread 1-2 lug nuts backward (optional) and snug with a 21mm socket.

Step 7: Install new pad hardware and pads

• On the bracket, remove old pad clips with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad lands with a wire brush.
• Install the new hardware clips from the hardware kit.
• Apply silicone brake lubricant where pads slide on the clips.
• Pad lands are the metal contact ledges.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor.
• Install the bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and ratchet 1/2".
• Final tighten with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 184 Nm (136 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and evenly until the piston is fully seated.
• Compression makes room for thicker new pads.

Step 10: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Apply a light coat of silicone brake lubricant to the caliper slide pin contact areas.
• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet 1/2".
• Final tighten with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 24 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the truck to the ground with the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times before driving until it feels firm.
• 🧪 Verify brake fluid level (top off only if needed).
• 🧪 Test at low speed first, then re-check for leaks/noises.
• 🧪 Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from 40–10 mph, with cool-down between stops.
• 🧪 Re-check lug nut torque after 25–50 miles: 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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