🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rotors on your Highlander. The rear brakes use a caliper, bracket, rotor, and a small drum-style parking brake inside the rear rotor hat, so the rotor may need gentle adjustment to come off.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Your Highlander is a hybrid. Do not touch orange high-voltage cables or hybrid components during this repair.
• ⚠️ Keep the vehicle powered completely OFF and the key/fob away from the vehicle while working.
• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ The parking brake must be released before removing the rear rotors.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and a dust mask. Brake dust is harmful if inhaled.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug nut socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Catch pan
• Needle-nose pliers
• Bungee cord 24-inch
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Brake anti-squeal lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Highlander on a flat, solid surface.
• Shift to Park and turn the vehicle completely OFF.
• Keep the key/fob at least 15 feet away so the hybrid system cannot wake up unexpectedly.
• Place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
• Release the parking brake fully before lifting the rear of the vehicle.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level. If it is near MAX, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the caliper pistons.
• A brake caliper piston compressor is a tool that pushes the piston back into the caliper so the new thicker pads will fit.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each rear lug nut about 1/2 turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the rear center jacking point or one rear side pinch-weld lift point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the approved rear support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Use wheel chocks at the front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper

• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to remove the two rear caliper slide bolts.
• Slide the caliper off the brake pads.
• Use a brake caliper hanger hook or bungee cord 24-inch to hang the caliper from the suspension.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

• Use your hands or a flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch to slide the old pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Use needle-nose pliers to remove the stainless pad hardware clips from the bracket.
• Pad hardware clips are small metal guides that let the brake pads move smoothly.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to remove the two rear caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle.
• Set the bolts aside where they will stay clean.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Pull the rotor straight off by hand.
• If the rotor is stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap around the rotor hat, not the braking surface.
• If it still will not come off, use a flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch through the rotor access hole to back off the parking brake shoe adjuster slightly.
• The parking brake shoe adjuster is a small star-wheel inside the rotor hat that expands or retracts the parking brake shoes.
• Do not force a stuck rotor.

Step 8: Clean the Hub and Bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
• Use brake cleaner spray and a catch pan to clean dust and debris from the caliper bracket.
• Use a wire brush to clean the areas where the new hardware clips will sit.
• Wear your safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and dust mask.

Step 9: Install the New Rotor

• Use brake cleaner spray to clean both faces of the new rotor.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub by hand.
• If needed, hold it in place with one lug nut installed finger-tight using the 21mm lug nut socket.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Place the caliper bracket back over the rotor.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Install New Pad Hardware and Grease Slide Pins

• Snap the new pad hardware clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use needle-nose pliers only if a clip needs gentle positioning.
• Pull the caliper slide pins out by hand.
• Wipe old grease from the pins with a clean rag.
• Apply a light coat of brake caliper slide pin grease to each pin.
• Push the pins back into the bracket until the rubber boots seat fully.

Step 12: Install the New Brake Pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake anti-squeal lubricant to the pad backing plates where they contact the caliper and bracket.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor face.
• Slide the new brake pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pads move freely in the hardware clips.

Step 13: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

• Use the brake caliper piston compressor to slowly push the caliper piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston so it does not overflow.
• If fluid rises too high, remove a small amount carefully before continuing.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new brake pads by hand.
• Install the two caliper slide bolts.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the slide bolts.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

• Use the same tools and steps on the opposite rear brake.
• Always replace rear pads and rotors in pairs.

Step 16: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Install each wheel onto the hub.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before starting the vehicle, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
• Check the brake fluid level and set it between MIN and MAX if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Start your Highlander and confirm the brake pedal feels firm before moving.
• Test the parking brake to make sure it holds normally.
• Drive slowly in a safe area and make several gentle stops.
• Recheck for abnormal scraping, grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• Bed in the new brakes with 8-10 moderate stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing time to cool between stops.
• Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
• Recheck wheel lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.