🔧 Wrangler - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear calipers, swapping the pads and rotors, and then torquing everything back to spec. On your Wrangler, the parking brake is a small drum brake inside the rotor “hat,” so the parking brake must be released to remove/install the rotor.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Wrangler with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 Release the parking brake before rotor removal (parking brake shoes sit inside the rotor).
• 🛑 Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
• 🛑 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket (19mm)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket (13mm)
• Socket (18mm)
• Wrench (17mm)
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake parts cleaner
• Bungee cord
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels.
• 🛑 Make sure the parking brake is fully released before lifting the rear.
• 🔍 Pop the hood and check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder; you’ll raise fluid level when compressing pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear wheels

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar to crack the lug nuts loose (about 1/2 turn) while the tires are still on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the axle housing and set the axle securely on jack stands.
• Keep wheel chocks at the front wheels.

Step 3: Remove the wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (do not stretch the hose)

• Turn the steering of your body (not the wheel) to get comfortable access and locate the two rear caliper slide pin bolts.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
• If the slide pin spins, hold it with a 17mm wrench while removing the bolt with the 13mm socket.
• Lift the caliper off and support it with a bungee cord.

Step 5: Remove the pads and hardware

• Remove the inner and outer pads by hand.
• Use a flathead screwdriver to pry out the old pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” with a wire brush and spray with brake parts cleaner.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 7: Remove the rotor (and deal with the parking brake if it’s stuck)

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub center with brake parts cleaner and tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
• If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it:
  • Use a flathead screwdriver through the access slot in the backing plate to back off the star adjuster a few clicks.
  • Small clicks make a big difference.

Step 8: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face (this helps prevent rotor wobble).
• Apply a very thin layer of anti-seize compound to the hub center (avoid the wheel studs and rotor braking surface).
• Install the new rotor.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
• Use an 18mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the caliper bracket bolts: Torque to 169 Nm (125 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new abutment clips into the bracket by hand (they should snap/seat firmly).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease where the pad ears slide on the clips (keep grease off pad friction material).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 11: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood.
• Use a C-clamp to slowly press the caliper piston fully back into the caliper.
• Go slow to avoid overflowing the reservoir.

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Use a 13mm socket to install the slide pin bolts.
• If needed, hold the slide pin with a 17mm wrench.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the slide pin bolts: Torque to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 4-12 on the other side.
• Do one side at a time to compare.

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Install the wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
• Lower the Wrangler to the ground using the floor jack.
• Use a torque wrench with a 19mm lug nut socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 130 Nm (96 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧯 With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the pads).
• 🔍 Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• 🛞 Test the parking brake hold on a slight incline (it should hold without over-pulling the lever).
• 🚗 Perform a pad bed-in: make 6-10 medium stops from 30-40 mph, allowing a little cool-down between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
• 🔎 After a short drive, re-check for unusual noise and re-torque lug nuts to 130 Nm (96 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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