How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2019 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step DIY rear brake service with tools, parts list, torque specs, EPB tips, and safety precautions
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2019 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step DIY rear brake service with tools, parts list, torque specs, EPB tips, and safety precautions for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement
You’ll be removing the rear wheels, taking off the calipers and rotors, retracting the parking-brake caliper pistons, then installing new rotors and pads on your Explorer. This restores braking power and stops vibration or grinding from worn parts.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Always work on a cool brake system; hot rotors and calipers can burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the Explorer with jack stands, never rely only on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and a dust mask; brake dust is harmful to breathe.
- ⚠️ Your Explorer has an electronic parking brake (EPB) at the rear. Never run the EPB while calipers are off the rotors.
- ⚠️ You will disconnect the negative battery cable to keep the EPB from moving while you work.
- ⚠️ After opening the brake system, avoid getting fluid on paint; it can damage the finish.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2–4)
- 🛠️ Wheel chocks
- 🛠️ 19mm socket
- 🛠️ Breaker bar 1/2"
- 🛠️ Torque wrench 1/2" drive (10–150 ft-lb range)
- 🛠️ Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10–60 ft-lb range)
- 🛠️ 13mm socket
- 🛠️ 15mm socket
- 🛠️ 3/8" hex bit socket
- 🛠️ Torx T30 bit or screwdriver
- 🛠️ Torx T40 bit or socket
- 🛠️ Ratchet 3/8"
- 🛠️ Ratchet 1/2"
- 🛠️ Short and long extensions 3/8"
- 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium)
- 🛠️ Needle-nose pliers
- 🛠️ Brake caliper compression / wind-back tool (specialty)
- 🛠️ C-clamp 6"
- 🛠️ Wire brush (small, steel)
- 🛠️ Bungee cord or mechanics wire
- 🛠️ Catch pan or drip tray
- 🛠️ Turkey baster or fluid suction tool
- 🛠️ Brake bleeder hose and bottle (simple manual kit)
- 🛠️ Shop rags
- 🛠️ Rubber or nitrile gloves
- 🛠️ Safety glasses
- 🛠️ Dust mask or respirator
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 🔩 Rear brake rotor (left) - Qty: 1
- 🔩 Rear brake rotor (right) - Qty: 1
- 🔩 Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set (serves both sides)
- 🔩 Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips / springs) - Qty: 1
- 🔩 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 2 cans
- 🔩 High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1 tube
- 🔩 Anti-seize compound (small tube) - Qty: 1
- 🔩 DOT 4 brake fluid - Qty: 1 liter
- 🔩 Caliper bracket bolts (rear, optional if corroded) - Qty: 4
- 🔩 Rotor retaining screws Torx (optional if damaged) - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park the Explorer on level ground, shift to PARK, and apply the parking brake firmly.
- Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with the 19mm socket while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll be watching the fluid level as you push pistons back.
- Use a turkey baster or fluid suction tool to remove a small amount of fluid if the reservoir is very full.
- Turn ignition off, wait 2–3 minutes, then disconnect the negative battery terminal with the correct wrench or socket to disable the EPB from moving while you work.
- Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks to prevent any movement.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and Support the Rear of the Explorer
- Use the floor jack at the rear jacking point (center of rear crossmember) to lift the back of the vehicle.
- Place jack stands under the approved rear pinch weld or frame points on both sides; slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands.
- Double-check stability by gently rocking the vehicle by hand.
- Remove the rear lug nuts with the 19mm socket and breaker bar, then remove both rear wheels.
Step 2: Access the Rear Caliper and EPB Motor
- Locate the rear brake caliper on one side; you will see a small electric motor bolted to the caliper (this is the EPB motor).
- Spray the caliper area and bolts lightly with brake cleaner to remove loose dust.
- Use the Torx T30 or T40 bit (depending on your caliper) with a 3/8" ratchet to remove the EPB motor mounting bolts from the back of the caliper.
- Gently pull the EPB motor straight back; let it hang from the wiring is risky, so support it with a bungee cord.
- Don’t twist or pry the EPB motor
Step 3: Retract the Rear Caliper Piston Manually
- With the EPB motor removed, you will see an internal drive where the motor shaft engaged.
- Insert the 3/8" hex bit socket into this drive and attach your 3/8" ratchet.
- Turn the hex drive slowly clockwise to retract the caliper piston fully. You should feel it turning and moving in.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir; if the fluid rises too high, remove some with the turkey baster.
- Fully retract piston or new pads won’t fit
Step 4: Remove the Caliper and Old Pads
- Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
- Use the 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the caliper slide bolts.
- Carefully slide the caliper off the rotor; hang it from the suspension spring using a bungee cord to avoid stressing the brake hose.
- Remove the old inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand or with a flathead screwdriver to pry gently.
Step 5: Remove the Caliper Bracket and Rotor
- Use the 15mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts holding the bracket to the knuckle.
- Take off the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
- If your rotor has a retaining screw, remove it using the Torx T30 bit and 3/8" ratchet or screwdriver.
- Slide the rotor off the hub. If stuck, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet (not metal) to break rust free.
- If very rusty, apply penetrating oil and wait
Step 6: Clean and Prepare the Hub and Bracket
- Use the wire brush to clean rust and debris from the face of the hub where the rotor sits.
- Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face to reduce future rust (avoid the wheel stud threads).
- On the caliper bracket, remove old pad clips/hardware using needle-nose pliers.
- Clean the pad contact areas on the bracket with the wire brush and spray with brake cleaner; let dry.
- Install the new pad clips from the hardware kit onto the bracket by hand.
- Apply a tiny amount of high-temp brake grease to the areas where pad ears contact the clips (do not get grease on pad friction surfaces or rotor).
Step 7: Install the New Rotor
- Clean the new rotor on both sides with brake cleaner and a clean rag to remove the protective oil coating.
- Place the new rotor onto the hub, aligning with the wheel studs.
- If your vehicle uses a rotor retaining screw, reinstall it with the Torx T30 bit and snug it by hand; do not overtighten.
Step 8: Reinstall Caliper Bracket and Install New Pads
- Position the caliper bracket back over the rotor.
- Install the caliper bracket bolts by hand first, then tighten with the 15mm socket and 1/2" ratchet.
- Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 115 Nm (85 ft-lb) with the 1/2" torque wrench.
- Install the new brake pads into the bracket, making sure the inner pad with the wear indicator (if present) goes on the inside.
- Slide the pads into the clips until they seat firmly.
Step 9: Refit the Caliper Over New Pads
- Confirm the caliper piston is fully retracted; if not, use the 3/8" hex bit again to retract more.
- Place the caliper over the new pads and bracket.
- Install the caliper slide bolts by hand, then tighten with the 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Torque the caliper slide bolts to 35 Nm (26 ft-lb) using the 3/8" torque wrench.
- Make sure the rubber boots are not twisted
Step 10: Reinstall the EPB Motor
- Carefully align the EPB motor with the drive on the back of the caliper.
- Install the EPB motor bolts using the Torx T30 or T40 bit and 3/8" ratchet.
- Snug the bolts and then torque to about 7 Nm (62 in-lb) with the 3/8" torque wrench if it reads in inch-pounds (or just snug, not very tight, if you don’t have in-lb).
Step 11: Repeat on the Other Rear Side
- Repeat Steps 2–10 on the other rear wheel.
- Always replace rear pads and rotors in pairs (both sides) for even braking.
Step 12: Reinstall Wheels and Lower the Vehicle
- Install each rear wheel and start all lug nuts by hand.
- Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern using the 19mm socket and 1/2" ratchet while the vehicle is still on jack stands.
- Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 135 Nm (100 ft-lb) using the 1/2" torque wrench.
Step 13: Reconnect Battery and Settle the Brakes
- Reconnect the negative battery cable and tighten securely.
- Get in the driver’s seat and press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
- Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and adjust with DOT 4 brake fluid if needed (between MIN and MAX).
Step 14: Test the Electronic Parking Brake
- With the vehicle on level ground, turn the ignition on (engine running is fine).
- Apply and release the electronic parking brake a few times using the cabin switch.
- Listen for any abnormal noises from the rear brakes.
- If any EPB warning light stays on, cycle ignition off and on and ensure the connectors at the EPB motors are secure.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and gently press the brake pedal; it should feel firm, not spongy.
- Check around the rear calipers and hoses for any signs of fluid leaks.
- Perform a short, low-speed test drive in a safe area: make several gentle stops from 20–30 km/h to confirm smooth braking and no pulling or noise.
- Bed-in (break in) the new pads: make 8–10 medium stops from about 50–60 km/h down to 10–20 km/h, allowing a bit of cool-down between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200–300 km if possible.
- After the test drive, recheck wheel lug nut torque with the torque wrench.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450–$700 (parts + labor for rear pads and rotors)
DIY Cost: $200–$350 (parts only, depending on brand)
You Save: $250–$350 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |
| 2016 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |
| 2015 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |
| 2014 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |
| 2013 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |















