🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, replace the rear brake pads and rotors, then reinstall everything with the correct torque. This restores braking performance and prevents noise/vibration when pads are worn or rotors are grooved/warped.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Explorer on jack stands; never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy—wear a dust mask and use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brakes get hot—work on a cool brake system.
• ⚠️ If equipped with an Electronic Parking Brake (EPB), you must put the EPB in service mode (or retract with a scan tool) before compressing the piston.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hanger hook.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (metric 10mm-21mm)
• Wrench set (metric 13mm-18mm)
• Caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
• Caliper hanger hook
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• C-clamp (6")
• Bungee cord
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin boots (if torn) - Qty: 1
• High-temp brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Threadlocker (medium strength) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting loosely). This helps the caliper piston push back easier.
• EPB note: If your Explorer has an EPB switch (button, not a foot pedal), use the EPB service mode steps below before compressing pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the approved rear jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the rear support points and gently lower the vehicle onto them.
• Give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Put the Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) in service mode (if equipped)

• EPB service mode retracts the parking brake motor.
• If you have an EPB switch: follow the dash sequence in your owner display for brake service mode, or retract using a scan tool with EPB service function (specialty). If you can’t access service mode, do not force the piston.
• If you have a foot-operated parking brake pedal: you can skip this step (no EPB motor).

Step 4: Remove the caliper (outer portion)

• Turn the steering slightly if needed for access (rear access is usually straight-on).
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using the correct socket set (metric) and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the pads and support it with a caliper hanger hook (do not stretch the hose).

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
• Remove the stainless abutment clips (hardware) using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the pad bracket “shelves” (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a breaker bar (1/2" drive) and appropriate socket set (metric).
• Set the bracket aside.
• When reinstalling later: apply threadlocker (medium strength) and Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Remove the old rotor

• If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray and tap the rotor hat evenly (front face) using controlled force with the side of a tool handle.
• Remove the rotor.
• Clean the wheel hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 8: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
• Slide the rotor onto the hub.
• Tip: Install one lug nut hand-tight to hold it.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware clips

• Reinstall the bracket using the socket set (metric) and 1/2" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Install new abutment clips from the hardware kit by hand (use a flathead screwdriver if needed to seat them fully).
• Apply a thin film of high-temp brake lubricant where pads contact the clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• The piston is the round “push” part inside the caliper.
• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a caliper piston compression tool (specialty) (or C-clamp (6") if applicable) to slowly compress the piston until it’s fully seated.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level as you compress; remove excess fluid if it nears the top.
• If the piston will not compress and you have EPB: stop and confirm EPB service mode was completed.

Step 11: Install the new brake pads

• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Apply a small amount of high-temp brake lubricant to the pad backing plate contact points (where the caliper touches), not on the pad friction material.

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 3/8" drive ratchet and correct socket set (metric).
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Repeat Steps 4–12 on the other rear wheel.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack, remove jack stands, then fully lower.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Restore brake pedal and check fluid

• Pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Reinstall the reservoir cap securely.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal remains firm.
• If equipped with EPB: apply and release the parking brake several times to confirm normal operation.
• Road test at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bed-in: Make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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