How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and rear caliper wind-back tips
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and rear caliper wind-back tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Escape - Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement
This job replaces the rear brake pads and rotors on your Escape. Worn pads or warped rotors can cause grinding, squealing, vibration, or reduced braking, so both sides should be serviced together.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack alone; always support your Escape with jack stands.
- ⚠️ Keep the transmission in Park and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- ⚠️ The 2014 Escape S uses a mechanical rear parking brake at the calipers. Make sure the parking brake is fully released before removing the rear calipers.
- ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air; use brake cleaner and a catch pan.
- ⚠️ Brake fluid damages paint. Keep rags nearby and do not overfill the reservoir when compressing caliper pistons.
- ⚠️ Rear caliper pistons must be rotated while compressed. A rear caliper wind-back tool is a tool that pushes and turns the piston at the same time.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 7mm hex bit socket
- 15mm socket
- Rear brake caliper wind-back tool (specialty)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Wire brush
- Brake parts cleaning brush
- Brake cleaner spray
- Catch pan
- Bungee cord
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on level ground and shift the transmission into Park.
- Release the parking brake fully.
- Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is very full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the pistons.
- Do one rear side at a time so the other side stays assembled as a reference.
- Take photos before removing parts.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the tires are still on the ground.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear
- Use the floor jack at the approved rear jacking point to raise the rear of your Escape.
- Place jack stands under the rear support points, then lower the vehicle gently onto the stands.
- Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath or near the wheels.
Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly
- Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Use the brake cleaner spray and catch pan to wet down brake dust around the caliper, pads, and rotor.
- Look at how the pads, clips, and parking brake cable are positioned before taking anything apart.
Step 5: Disconnect the Parking Brake Cable from the Caliper
- Make sure the parking brake is released.
- Use needle-nose pliers and a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully move the parking brake cable end out of the caliper lever.
- Do not kink or sharply bend the cable.
- Move slowly and watch spring tension.
Step 6: Remove the Rear Caliper Guide Pin Bolts
- Use the 7mm hex bit socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the two rear caliper guide pin bolts.
- Hold the caliper steady with your free hand as the last bolt comes out.
- Slide the caliper off the bracket.
- Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
- Remove the old pad clips from the bracket by hand or with the flat-blade screwdriver.
- Compare the old pads to the new pads to confirm the shape matches before continuing.
Step 8: Remove the Caliper Bracket
- Use the 15mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the two rear caliper bracket bolts.
- Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
- The caliper bracket is the heavy metal piece that holds the brake pads around the rotor.
Step 9: Remove the Rear Rotor
- Slide the rear rotor straight off the wheel hub by hand.
- If it is stuck from rust, tap the rotor hat area gently with a suitable hammer if available, avoiding the wheel studs.
- If the rotor does not move, recheck that the parking brake is fully released.
Step 10: Clean the Hub and Bracket
- Use the wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face where the rotor sits.
- Use the brake parts cleaning brush and brake cleaner spray to clean the caliper bracket pad contact areas.
- Wipe everything dry with shop rags.
- A clean hub helps prevent brake vibration.
Step 11: Install the New Rotor
- Clean both friction faces of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe dry with shop rags.
- Slide the new rotor onto the wheel hub by hand.
- Thread one lug nut on backward by hand to hold the rotor flat while you work.
Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket
- Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
- Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the 15mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Install New Pad Hardware
- Snap the new brake pad clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Use a small amount of brake lubricant on the pad ears where they touch the clips.
- Do not put lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor face.
Step 14: Wind Back the Rear Caliper Piston
- Use the rear brake caliper wind-back tool to rotate and push the caliper piston fully into the caliper bore.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while doing this. If the level rises near the top, stop and remove a small amount safely.
- Align the piston face so the raised pins or grooves match the back of the inner brake pad.
- Rear pistons turn in; do not force straight.
Step 15: Install the New Brake Pads
- Slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure the pads move smoothly in the new clips.
- If they bind, remove them and clean the bracket contact points again with the wire brush.
Step 16: Reinstall the Caliper
- Place the caliper over the new pads and rotor by hand.
- Start both guide pin bolts by hand.
- Use the 7mm hex bit socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolts.
- Use a suitable torque wrench setup to tighten the guide pin bolts to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
Step 17: Reconnect the Parking Brake Cable
- Use needle-nose pliers and a flat-blade screwdriver to reconnect the parking brake cable end to the caliper lever.
- Confirm the cable is seated correctly and the lever returns fully when released.
Step 18: Repeat on the Other Rear Side
- Use the same tools and steps on the opposite rear brake.
- Replace rear pads and rotors in pairs only.
Step 19: Reinstall the Rear Wheels
- Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor.
- Install the wheels and start all lug nuts by hand.
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 20: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower your Escape to the ground.
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 21: Pump the Brake Pedal
- Before moving the vehicle, press the brake pedal slowly 5-10 times until it feels firm.
- This seats the caliper pistons against the new pads.
- Check the brake fluid reservoir and adjust the level if needed using the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start your Escape and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm, not sink to the floor.
- ✅ Test the parking brake operation while parked. It should hold the vehicle and release fully.
- ✅ Check both rear calipers for leaks or twisted brake hoses.
- ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area and test the brakes at low speed first.
- ✅ Bed in the new pads with several gentle stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, letting the brakes cool briefly between stops.
- ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless it is an emergency.
- ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$250 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$350 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2016 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |


















