🔧 Impreza - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear calipers, replace the brake pads and rotors, then reassemble everything with the correct torque. This restores braking performance and prevents noise/vibration caused by worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and support the car on jack stands before removing any wheel.
• 🔥 Brakes can be extremely hot; let them cool before touching calipers/rotors.
• ⚡ If your Impreza has an electronic parking brake (EPB), you must put it in service/maintenance mode before pushing the pistons back.
• 🧴 Avoid getting grease or brake fluid on pad/rotor friction surfaces.
• 🔒 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) x2
• Wheel chocks x2
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8"
• 3" extension 3/8"
• Flat trim tool
• C-clamp (6")
• Brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Dead blow hammer
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a flat surface, put the shifter in Park, and chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Release the parking brake completely before lifting the rear of the car.
• If your Impreza has electronic parking brake (EPB): plan to enter EPB service/maintenance mode before compressing the rear pistons.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll monitor the fluid level during piston compression.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket with a breaker bar 1/2" to loosen each rear wheel’s lug nuts about 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Lift and support the rear of the car

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands placed at the rear pinch welds or approved support points.
• Remove the wheels using the 19mm socket.

Step 3: Put the rear parking brake system in the correct state

• If you have an electronic parking brake (EPB): put the EPB into service/maintenance mode before pushing pistons in. If you’re unsure how, tell me whether your Impreza has a parking brake switch or a manual lever, and I’ll give the exact procedure.
• If you have a manual parking brake lever: ensure the lever is fully released before continuing.

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper (do not disconnect the brake hose)

• Turn the steering wheel straight (rear work doesn’t require steering angle changes).
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8" to remove the two rear caliper slide bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord (do not let it hang by the hose).

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Remove the pads from the bracket by hand; use a flat trim tool if needed.
• Remove the abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket using the flat trim tool.
• Clean the bracket pad lands with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner spray.
• Clean metal helps prevent pad sticking.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 17mm socket with a breaker bar 1/2" to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside.
• During reassembly: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
• If it’s stuck from rust, spray the hub/rotor center with brake cleaner spray and tap the rotor hat with a dead blow hammer until it breaks free.
• Clean the hub face using a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 8: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
• Slide the rotor onto the hub.
• To keep the rotor from wobbling while you work, temporarily install one lug nut finger-tight using the 19mm socket.

Step 9: Service the caliper slide pins and reinstall the bracket

• Pull the slide pins from the bracket by hand, wipe clean, and apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease.
• Reinstall the bracket and tighten the bolts using a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Install new hardware and new pads

• Install the new abutment clips from the rear brake hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a very thin film of silicone brake grease where the pad ears contact the clips (metal-to-metal only).
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 11: Compress the rear caliper piston

• Check the brake fluid reservoir level first; fluid may rise when pistons go back in.
• If your rear caliper piston pushes straight in: use a C-clamp (6") to slowly compress the piston.
• If your rear caliper piston must be rotated to retract: use a brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) (this tool turns and pushes the piston at the same time).
• Go slow to avoid damaging the caliper.

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a torque wrench with a 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the car still parked, slowly pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
• If equipped with electronic parking brake (EPB): exit service/maintenance mode and confirm the parking brake applies/releases normally.
• Do a slow test drive and verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (recommended): make 6-8 gentle stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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