🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear brake calipers/brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble with correct lubrication and torque. This restores braking performance and fixes pulsation/vibration caused by warped or worn rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake released while removing/installing rear rotors (your Accord’s parking brake is a small drum brake inside the rear rotor “hat”).
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Short extension (3/8" drive)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• C-clamp brake caliper compressor
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair)
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper silicone grease - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 bottle
• Rear rotor retaining screws - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the transmission to P, and chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• 🛑 Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir; if it’s near “MAX,” be ready to remove a little later (compressing pistons can raise the level).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the rear

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen rear lug nuts about 1/2 turn (don’t remove yet).
• Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum) at safe lift points.
• Remove the wheels using the 19mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed; you’re working on the rear.
• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the pads and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord (do not let it hang by the hose).

Step 3: Remove pads and caliper bracket

• Pull the old pads out by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Use a 17mm socket, breaker bar, and short extension (3/8" drive) to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Reinstall torque later: Torque to 79 N·m (58 ft-lbs) for the bracket bolts.

Step 4: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them with a Phillips screwdriver. Press hard to avoid stripping.
• Pull the rotor straight off.
• If the rotor is stuck to the hub:
• Thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s push-off holes and tighten evenly with a 3/8" drive ratchet until the rotor pops loose.
• If needed, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet (avoid hitting wheel studs).

Step 5: Check the parking brake shoes (inside the rotor hat)

• With the rotor off, inspect the small parking brake shoes and hardware for cracking, lining separation, or missing springs.
• Clean dust using brake cleaner spray and wear safety glasses.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face (where the rotor sits).
• Spray the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean (removes shipping oil).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• If equipped, install new rotor screws and snug them with a Phillips screwdriver (do not overtighten).

Step 7: Adjust parking brake shoe drag (if rotor fit is tight/loose)

• If the rotor won’t slide on easily, the parking brake shoes may be adjusted too tight.
• Remove the rotor and slightly back off the adjuster using a flathead screwdriver (the adjuster is part of the parking brake mechanism at the bottom).
• After rotor install, if you can access the adjuster through the backing plate slot, adjust for a faint, even drag when turning the rotor by hand.

Step 8: Service slide pins and install bracket

• Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off and apply a thin coat of brake caliper silicone grease to the smooth part of each pin (avoid getting grease on the threads).
• Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 79 N·m (58 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips from the rear brake hardware kit onto the bracket (they snap in).
• Apply a very light film of brake caliper silicone grease where the pad “ears” slide on the clips. Keep grease off pad material.
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall caliper

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp brake caliper compressor to slowly push the piston back in.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove a little fluid if it nears overflow.
• Set the caliper over the new pads and install the slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 34 N·m (25 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Reinstall wheels

• Put the wheels back on and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a 19mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 N·m (80 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 With the car on the ground, pump the brake pedal slowly 8–12 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• 🧴 Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 only if needed.
• 🅿️ Test the parking brake: it should hold the car; release fully and confirm the rear wheels spin freely.
• 🛣️ Bed-in (break-in) the pads/rotors: do 6–10 moderate stops from 35–45 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
• 🔍 Listen for scraping/grinding; recheck your work if any abnormal noise persists.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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