🔧 Grand Cherokee - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swap the rear brake pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the new pads. This restores stopping power and prevents vibration or noise from worn or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Grand Cherokee with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Parking brake must be fully released before rotor removal.
• ⚠️ If brake fluid nears the top, remove a little before compressing pistons to prevent overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 22mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 21mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Socket extension set
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Disc brake piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Torx T30 screwdriver
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (synthetic caliper grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2
• Brake fluid (DOT 3, verify on reservoir cap) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake fully.
• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (you may need to remove a small amount later).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear lift point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and verify stability.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 22mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering slightly if you need more access (rear access is usually straight-on).
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a brake caliper hanger hook (never let it hang by the hose).

Step 3: Remove the old pads and inspect

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck.
• Check the caliper slide pins for smooth movement (they should slide in/out by hand).
• Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 21mm socket, breaker bar, and socket extension set.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has a retaining screw, remove it using a Torx T30 screwdriver.
• Pull the rotor straight off. If seized, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break it loose.
• If the rotor won’t come off, confirm the parking brake is fully released. On your Grand Cherokee, the parking brake shoes can hold the rotor if applied.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face using a wire brush (this helps prevent rotor wobble and pedal pulsation).
• Spray the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner spray and wipe dry to remove packing oil.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub. Reinstall the retaining screw (if equipped) using a Torx T30 screwdriver.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Install the caliper bracket and start the bolts by hand.
• Tighten using a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 169 Nm (125 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Remove old pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the clip lands on the bracket with a wire brush, then spray with brake cleaner spray.
• Install the new hardware clips by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake lubricant (synthetic caliper grease) where the pad ears contact the clips. Keep grease off pad faces.
• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper

• Compress the caliper piston slowly using a disc brake piston compressor tool (specialty) (a tool that pushes the piston straight back evenly) or a C-clamp (6").
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood while compressing.
• Set the caliper over the new pads and align the slide pin bolt holes.
• Install and tighten the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 22mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Restore pedal feel

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• If the pedal does not firm up, stop and recheck caliper installation and slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (verify DOT 3 on the reservoir cap).
• Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
• Bed-in the new pads: make 8–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops for cooling.
• Recheck for leaks, odd noises, or pulling after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $320-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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