How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, parking brake tips, and bedding-in steps
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, parking brake tips, and bedding-in steps for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Odyssey - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear brake calipers and brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the new brakes. On your Odyssey, the parking brake is a cable-operated system that works inside the rear rotor “hat,” so you may need to back off the parking brake adjuster if the rotor is stuck.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the van with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- ⚠️ Brake components can be hot; let them cool before touching.
- ⚠️ Keep grease and oil off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 1/2" breaker bar
- Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
- Impact driver with #3 Phillips bit
- Large C-clamp
- Caliper hanger hook
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Rubber mallet
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a level surface, put the transmission in Park, and release the parking brake completely.
- Chock both front wheels securely using wheel chocks.
- Loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Lift the rear with a floor jack and support the rear pinch welds/subframe with jack stands.
- Tip: Do one side at a time.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear wheels
- Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.
Step 2: Remove the caliper (do not let it hang)
- Find the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
- Remove both slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a caliper hanger hook.
- Tip: Hanging prevents hose damage.
Step 3: Remove the brake pads and hardware
- Pull the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
- Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) using a flathead screwdriver.
- Clean the bracket pad “shelves” (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner.
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
- Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
- When reinstalling later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the rotor retaining screws (if equipped)
- If your rotors have small screws on the face, remove them using an impact driver with #3 Phillips bit.
- Tip: Press hard to avoid stripping.
Step 6: Remove the rotor (and back off the parking brake if stuck)
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
- If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet while pulling.
- If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it:
- Locate the access slot/hole behind the rotor area (you may need to rotate the rotor to line up the access).
- Use a flathead screwdriver to turn the star-wheel adjuster to loosen the shoes (small turns, then retry the rotor).
Step 7: Clean the hub and install the new rotor
- Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.
- Clean the new rotor faces with brake cleaner and shop rags (removes shipping oil).
- Install the new rotor onto the hub.
Step 8: Service the slide pins and reinstall the bracket
- Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
- Wipe them clean with shop rags, then apply a thin coat of silicone brake lubricant.
- Reinstall the slide pins into the bracket boots.
- Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Install new hardware and pads
- Install the new stainless pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
- Apply a very thin layer of silicone brake lubricant on the pad ears (the small metal “tabs” that slide in the clips).
- Install the new pads into the bracket.
- Tip: Pads should slide freely by hand.
Step 10: Compress the caliper piston
- Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood (loosens pressure).
- Place an old pad against the caliper piston and compress it slowly using a large C-clamp.
- A C-clamp is a screw clamp that pushes the piston back in evenly.
- Watch the reservoir level and remove excess fluid with a rag if it gets too high.
Step 11: Reinstall the caliper
- Place the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side
- Repeat Steps 2 through 11 on the other rear wheel.
Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the van
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the van off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
- Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
- Test the parking brake: apply and release it to ensure it doesn’t drag.
- Do a careful road test at low speed first, then bed-in the pads:
- Make 6-8 moderate stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph, with 30 seconds between stops.
- Avoid sitting stopped with hard brake pressure right after bedding.
- Recheck for any brake fluid seepage and listen for unusual grinding or scraping.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$360 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$490 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Assumption: Stock rear disc brakes with drum-in-hat parking brake (typical for your Odyssey).
Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 Honda Odyssey | - | - | - |
| 2016 Honda Odyssey | - | - | - |
| 2015 Honda Odyssey | - | - | - |
| 2014 Honda Odyssey | - | - | - |
| 2013 Honda Odyssey | - | - | - |
| 2012 Honda Odyssey | - | - | - |
| 2011 Honda Odyssey | - | - | - |

















