How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback (Trim: 2.5i Premium)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, parking brake adjustment tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback (Trim: 2.5i Premium)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, parking brake adjustment tips, and torque specs for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
🔧 Outback - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear calipers and brackets, swap the rotors, and install new brake pads. On your Outback, the parking brake is a small “drum brake” inside the rear rotor, so rotor removal/installation sometimes needs a quick parking-brake adjustment.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; brake dust and cleaner are irritating.
- 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let everything cool before starting.
- 🧱 Chock the front wheels and keep the transmission in 1st gear (manual).
- 🅿️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (it locks the rotor).
- 🔩 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
- Flathead screwdriver
- C-clamp brake piston compressor
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- 2" paint brush
- Brake parts cleaner spray
- High-temp silicone brake grease
- Anti-seize compound
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and put the transmission in 1st gear.
- Release the parking brake fully (rear rotors won’t come off if it’s applied).
- Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
- Crack the rear lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; when you compress the pistons the level may rise.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and support the rear
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jacking point, then set the rear on jack stands.
- Keep the front wheels chocked with wheel chocks.
Step 2: Remove the rear wheels
- Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.
Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (do not let it hang)
- Remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord.
- Don’t stretch or twist the brake hose.
Step 4: Remove the rear pads and hardware
- Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; if stuck, use a flathead screwdriver gently.
- Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
- Set the bracket aside.
- Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
Step 6: Remove the rear rotor (parking brake is inside)
- If the rotor slides off, remove it by hand.
- If it’s stuck, tap around the rotor “hat” with a rubber mallet.
- If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be adjusted too tight:
- Use a flathead screwdriver through the access slot to turn the star-wheel adjuster to loosen the shoes (small turns).
- Try the rotor again.
Step 7: Clean the hub and prep the new rotor
- Clean rust off the hub face using a wire brush.
- Spray the hub area with brake parts cleaner spray and wipe clean.
- Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub center (not the wheel studs).
- Clean the new rotor with brake parts cleaner spray to remove packing oil.
Step 8: Install the new rotor and set parking brake drag
- Slide the new rotor onto the hub by hand.
- If the rotor won’t go on easily, loosen the parking brake adjuster slightly using a flathead screwdriver.
- Once installed, adjust so the rotor turns freely with only the faintest shoe contact (no heavy drag) using a flathead screwdriver.
Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Reinstall the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Install new pad hardware and pads
- Install the new pad clips into the bracket.
- Use high-temp silicone brake grease on the pad “ears” where they slide in the clips (a thin coat).
- Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
- Keep grease off pad friction surfaces.
Step 11: Compress the rear caliper piston
- Place an old pad against the piston, then use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston fully back in.
- A brake piston compressor is a clamp tool that pushes the piston back so the thicker new pads fit.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove excess fluid if it threatens to overflow.
Step 12: Reinstall the caliper
- Set the caliper over the new pads and bracket.
- Install the two slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
- Torque to 120 Nm (88.5 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
- Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 if needed.
- Apply and release the parking brake a few times; confirm it holds the car and releases fully.
- Test drive at low speed first; confirm no grinding, pulling, or vibration.
- Brake pad bedding (recommended): do 6-8 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Subaru vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2014 Subaru Outback | 2.5i | - | - |
| 2014 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Limited | - | - |
| 2014 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Premium | - | - |
| 2013 Subaru Outback | 2.5i | - | - |
| 2013 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Limited | - | - |
| 2013 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Premium | - | - |
| 2012 Subaru Outback | 2.5i | - | - |
| 2012 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Limited | - | - |
| 2012 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Premium | - | - |
| 2011 Subaru Outback | 2.5i | - | - |
| 2011 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Limited | - | - |
| 2011 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Premium | - | - |
| 2010 Subaru Outback | 2.5i | - | - |
| 2010 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Limited | - | - |
| 2010 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Premium | - | - |

















