🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors and pads, then reassemble and verify everything works safely. Rear brakes wear slower than fronts, but worn pads/rotors can cause noise, vibration, and longer stopping distances.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Accord with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; brake dust and cleaner are irritating.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let them cool before touching parts.
• 🧷 Do not let the caliper hang by the hose; support it with a hanger/strap.
• 🦶 Release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers are tied to it).
• 🧪 Watch the brake fluid level while compressing pistons; remove a little if it nears overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) - Qty: 2
• Wheel chocks - Qty: 2
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
• C-clamp (6")
• #3 Phillips screwdriver
• Manual impact driver (specialty)
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (25-40mm long) - Qty: 2
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and chock the front wheels.
• 🦶 Make sure the parking brake is released before lifting the rear.
• 🔩 Crack the rear lug nuts loose using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before the wheels leave the ground.
• 🧪 Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; be ready to remove a little fluid if it rises when pistons are pushed back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (do one side at a time)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed; you’re working in back.
• Remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
• Lift the caliper off and hang it with a bungee cord.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out by hand; use a flat blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the pad hardware/abutment clips from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad lands with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.
• Clean metal-to-metal contact areas only.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar (1/2").
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If equipped with rotor screws, remove them using a #3 Phillips screwdriver.
• If the screws are stuck, use a manual impact driver (specialty) (a tool you strike to help loosen stuck screws).
• If the rotor is stuck to the hub, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s push-off holes and tighten evenly using a ratchet (3/8") until the rotor pops free.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and wipe with shop towels.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe with shop towels to remove protective oil.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub center (avoid the studs and rotor friction surface).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Reinstall the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and ratchet (1/2").
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 8: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install new abutment clips onto the bracket.
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone) where pad ears slide on the clips (keep grease off pad/rotor faces).
• Install the new inner and outer pads in the bracket.

Step 9: Compress the rear caliper piston

• Check the piston face before you force it.
• If the piston presses straight in, compress it using a C-clamp (6") slowly and evenly.
• If the piston has notches and resists pushing, use a brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) (it pushes while turning) and rotate clockwise while applying pressure until it seats.
• Keep an eye on the reservoir under the hood while compressing.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new pads.
• Reinstall the slide bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 2 through 10 on the other rear wheel.
• One side at a time prevents mix-ups.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 19mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• 🧪 Recheck brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• 🦶 Apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm normal feel.
• 🚗 Test drive slowly at first; confirm no grinding, pulling, or vibration.
• 🛑 Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30-40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 150-200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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