🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear calipers and brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and pump the brake pedal to restore a firm pedal. On your Accord, the parking brake uses small “drum-in-hat” shoes inside the rear rotor, so rotor removal can be tight if the parking brake is adjusted too far out.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Brake dust is harmful—wear gloves and a dust mask, and use brake cleaner (don’t blow dust with compressed air).
• 🔥 Brakes get hot—work on a fully cooled brake system.
• 🔒 Leave the car in gear (manual) and use wheel chocks; release the parking brake before removing rear rotors.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (2-ton minimum pair)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lb range)
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• Phillips #3 bit screwdriver
• Manual impact driver (specialty)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (2 pcs, 25-40mm long)
• Bungee cord
• Small flat screwdriver
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully (important for rotor removal).
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose before lifting: use a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (rest it on top). This helps the caliper piston push back easier. Don’t spill brake fluid on paint.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jacking point, then support with jack stands (2-ton minimum pair).
• Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (pads still inside)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just work straight-on.
• Remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord. Never let it hang by the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket using a small flat screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 14mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket on a clean surface.

Step 5: Remove the rotor (drum-in-hat parking brake inside)

• If your rotors have retaining screws, remove them using a manual impact driver (specialty) with a Phillips #3 bit screwdriver.
• If the rotor is stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts (2 pcs, 25-40mm long) into the rotor “jacking” holes and tighten evenly with a ratchet to push the rotor off.
• If the rotor still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it:
  • Remove the rubber plug in the rotor hat (if present) using a small flat screwdriver.
  • Back off the parking brake adjuster a few clicks through the access hole using the small flat screwdriver, then try again.
• Tap the rotor hat lightly with a rubber mallet if needed.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face (where rotor sits) with a wire brush, then spray with brake cleaner.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (avoid wheel studs).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub. If you have retaining screws, reinstall and snug them with a Phillips #3 bit screwdriver (do not over-tighten).

Step 7: Service the slide pins and reinstall the bracket

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off, then apply fresh brake caliper grease (silicone) and reinstall the pins (they should glide smoothly).
• Reinstall the bracket bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lb).

Step 8: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips/hardware onto the bracket (they snap into place).
• Add a thin smear of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears contact the clips (not on the pad friction material).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the caliper piston face, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston straight back in.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level while compressing (don’t let it overflow).
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the two slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 32 Nm (24 ft-lb).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the car, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lb).

Step 12: Reset pedal and verify parking brake feel

• With engine OFF, press the brake pedal firmly 10-15 times until it feels solid.
• Set and release the parking brake a few times to confirm it holds and releases normally.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal stays firm.
• Do a slow test in a safe area: 5-10 mph stops first, then slightly harder stops.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT rating shown on the reservoir cap).
• If you hear scraping or the wheel is hard to turn, the parking brake shoes may be adjusted too tight—recheck Step 5 adjuster.
• Pad bedding (break-in): make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, with cool-down time between stops. Avoid holding the brakes at a complete stop right after a hard stop.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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