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2013 Toyota Highlander
2008 - 2013 Toyota Highlander
V6 3.5L
Compatible with more variants.
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How To Replace The Rear Brake Pads And Rotors On A 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander

How To Replace The Rear Brake Pads And Rotors On A 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander (Engine: Inline 4 2.7L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and brake bedding for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander (Engine: Inline 4 2.7L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and brake bedding for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rear brake rotors on your Highlander. The rear rotor also contains the parking brake drum surface, so the parking brake must be fully released before you remove the rotor.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and never get under your Highlander while it is supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Use jack stands. A jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands safely hold it up.
  • ⚠️ Release the parking brake completely before removing the rear rotors.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a rear caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm lug nut socket
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
  • Brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Medium flathead screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Rubber mallet
  • M8 x 1.25 bolts, 30mm length
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Catch pan
  • Bungee cord
  • Turkey baster
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Dust mask

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
  • High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle
  • Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Highlander on a flat surface.
  • Shift to Park and turn the ignition OFF.
  • Release the parking brake fully.
  • Place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
  • Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is near the MAX line, remove a small amount with a turkey baster so it does not overflow later.
  • A caliper is the clamp that squeezes the pads onto the rotor.
  • A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct factory tightness.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Loosen before lifting.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear

  • Use the floor jack to lift the rear of your Highlander.
  • Place jack stands under the rear support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Keep the floor jack lightly touching as backup support.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels.
  • Place one wheel under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper

  • Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the brake pads.
  • Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the suspension.
  • Do not stretch, kink, or twist the rubber brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Clips

  • Use your hands or a medium flathead screwdriver to slide the old pads out of the caliper bracket.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to remove the old metal pad clips.
  • The clips are small stainless guides that help the pads slide smoothly.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

  • Use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the two caliper bracket bolts.
  • Use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the bolts.
  • Remove the caliper bracket.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

  • Confirm again that the parking brake is fully released.
  • Pull the rotor straight off by hand.
  • If it is stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts, 30mm length into the threaded holes on the rotor face.
  • Use the proper socket for your M8 bolts with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet and tighten each bolt evenly, a few turns at a time.
  • If needed, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet.
  • If the rotor still will not move, use a medium flathead screwdriver through the rotor access hole to slightly back off the parking brake shoe adjuster.

Step 8: Clean the Hub and Bracket

  • Use the wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
  • Use brake cleaner spray and a catch pan to rinse the hub area.
  • Use the wire brush to clean the caliper bracket where the new pad clips sit.
  • Clean metal prevents brake vibration.

Step 9: Install the New Rotor

  • Use brake cleaner spray to clean both sides of the new rotor.
  • Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
  • Install one lug nut by hand to hold the rotor flat while you work.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

  • Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
  • Start both bracket bolts by hand.
  • Use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolts.
  • Use the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten the bracket bolts to Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Install New Brake Hardware

  • Use your hands to snap the new pad clips into the caliper bracket.
  • Apply a thin film of high-temperature brake lubricant where the pad ears touch the clips.
  • Do not get lubricant on the rotor face or pad friction surface.

Step 12: Grease the Slide Pins

  • Pull each slide pin out of the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Wipe the old grease off with a clean rag.
  • Apply brake caliper slide pin grease to each pin.
  • Push the pins back in and make sure they slide smoothly.

Step 13: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

  • Slide the new pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Make sure each pad moves easily in the clips.
  • If a pad feels jammed, remove it and check clip position.

Step 14: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston.
  • Use the brake caliper piston compression tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while pushing the piston in.
  • If the fluid gets too close to the top, remove a small amount with the turkey baster.

Step 15: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Remove the bungee cord and place the caliper over the new pads.
  • Start both caliper slide pin bolts by hand.
  • Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolts.
  • Use the 3/8-inch drive torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten the slide pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat the same steps on the other rear brake.
  • Replace pads and rotors on both rear sides together.

Step 17: Reinstall the Wheels

  • Remove the temporary lug nut from each rotor.
  • Install both rear wheels.
  • Start all lug nuts by hand.
  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 18: Lower and Torque the Wheels

  • Use the floor jack to raise the rear slightly.
  • Remove the jack stands.
  • Lower the tires until they touch the ground.
  • Use the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 21mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
  • Lower the vehicle fully.

Step 19: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Sit in the driver seat.
  • Slowly press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
  • Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.
  • Check the brake fluid level and add DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Check both rear brake areas for leaks or loose parts.
  • ✅ Test the parking brake to confirm it holds and releases normally.
  • ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area and make several gentle stops.
  • ✅ Bed in the pads with 8-10 gentle stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph.
  • ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
  • ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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