🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear brake calipers and brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. On your Altima, the parking brake uses small drum shoes inside the rear rotor “hat,” so the parking brake must be released and the rotor may need a little extra coaxing to come off.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands (never rely on the jack alone).
• 🧤 Brake dust is unhealthy—wear gloves and a dust mask; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot—let everything cool before starting.
• 🅿️ Release the parking brake fully before removing rear rotors (parking brake shoes are inside the rotor).
• 🔩 Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Ratchet
• Wire brush
• C-clamp (6-inch)
• Bungee cord
• Flathead screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic) - Qty: 1
• High-temp anti-seize - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. You may need to remove a little fluid if it’s at the MAX line (pushing caliper pistons back can raise the level).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear of the car at the proper rear jacking point.
• Place jack stands under solid lift/support points and lower onto the stands.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed—rear is straight; just position yourself for access.
• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord from the suspension spring. Never let it hang by the hose.
• Torque on install: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper slide bolts.

Step 3: Remove the old brake pads and hardware

• Slide the brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “lands” (the stainless clip contact areas) with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.
• Clean metal-to-metal contact prevents sticking.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Torque on install: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper bracket bolts.

Step 5: Remove the rotor (and deal with the parking brake shoes if it’s stuck)

• Pull the rotor straight off by hand.
• If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat evenly with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
• If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it:
  • Look for the rubber access plug on the rotor hat/backing plate area; pop it out with a flathead screwdriver (if equipped).
  • Use the flathead screwdriver to rotate the star wheel adjuster to loosen the shoes until the rotor slides off.
• Once removed, clean the hub face with a wire brush and wipe clean.
• Apply a paper-thin coat of high-temp anti-seize to the hub face to reduce future rotor sticking (avoid the wheel studs).

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe dry (removes protective oil).
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• If the rotor won’t fully seat, re-check that the parking brake is released and the shoes are not too tight (Step 5).

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6-inch) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.
• Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips/hardware into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a light coat of brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the clips (not on pad friction material).
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Reinstall bracket and caliper

• Reinstall the caliper bracket over the rotor using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper bracket bolts.
• Position the caliper over the new pads and install the slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper slide bolts.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) for the wheel lug nuts.

Step 11: Seat the pads and set the parking brake

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Apply and release the parking brake a few times to help self-center the parking brake shoes.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Test at low speed first: confirm normal braking, no pulling, and no grinding.
• Listen for a light scrape at first (can be normal), but loud grinding means stop and recheck assembly.
• Pad bed-in (recommended): make 6–8 moderate stops from ~35 mph down to ~5 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops to cool.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$520 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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