🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, unbolting the rear brake calipers, swapping the brake pads, and replacing the rear rotors. On your Highlander, the parking brake is a small “drum brake” inside the rear rotor, so releasing/adjusting it is the key to getting the rotor off and back on smoothly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely only on a jack.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves; brake dust and cleaner are irritating.
• 🔥 Brakes can be very hot; let them cool before starting.
• 🧯 Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed; it can push the piston out and leak.
• 🅿️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (it holds shoes inside the rotor).
• 🔩 Hang the caliper with a hook/strap; don’t let it dangle by the brake hose.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (ft-lb range)
• Large C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Rubber mallet
• Bungee cord or caliper hook
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (Replace in pairs)
• Rear brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1 (Recommended)
• Brake caliper grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle (Only if topping off needed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Release the parking brake fully (your Highlander uses a foot pedal parking brake).
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Lift the rear and support securely on jack stands under the correct lift points.
• Turn the steering wheel is not required for rear brakes; keep the key off.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (do not disconnect the hose)

• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back side of the caliper.
• Remove the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord or caliper hook so the brake hose is not stretched.
• Tip: “Slide pins” are the caliper’s guide bolts.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and inspect hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the pad clips/hardware (if being replaced) using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad contact areas using a wire brush and brake cleaner.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two bracket mounting bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• During reassembly: Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rear rotor (parking brake shoes are inside)

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
• If the rotor is stuck, tap the rotor hat lightly with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
• If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it:
  • Use a flathead screwdriver to rotate the star-wheel adjuster through the access slot (behind the rotor area) to loosen the shoes.
  • Tip: Loosen a little, try rotor, repeat.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and wipe with brake cleaner and shop rags.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• If the rotor doesn’t slide on easily, confirm the parking brake is fully released and not over-adjusted.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware

• Reinstall the bracket and start bolts by hand, then tighten using a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).
• Install the new pad hardware clips (if replacing) by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if needed.
• Apply a very thin layer of brake caliper grease where the pad “ears” touch the clips.

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (under the hood). If it’s near “MAX,” remove a small amount with a clean rag to prevent overflow.
• Compress the piston slowly using a large C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty).
• Go slowly and keep the piston straight.
• Tip: Slow compression protects seals.

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand (match inner/outer pads correctly).
• Slide the caliper back over the pads.
• Reinstall the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 2–9 on the other rear wheel.
• Tip: Do one side at a time for reference.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle to the ground using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm before driving.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid only if needed.
• Test at low speed first; confirm normal stopping and no grinding noises.
• Set and release the parking brake a few times to confirm it holds properly.
• Pad break-in (safe area): do 6–10 medium stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $340-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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