🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swap the rear brake pads, and replace the rear rotors. On your Accord, the rear caliper piston must be rotated while being pushed in because the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting rear brake work, and chock the front wheels.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—wear a mask and use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Watch the brake fluid reservoir level when compressing pistons; don’t let it overflow.
• ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) - Qty: 2
• Wheel chocks - Qty: 2
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Dust mask
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 19mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Socket extension (3" and 6")
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• C-clamp (6")
• Caliper piston rewind tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Impact driver with JIS #3 bit (specialty)
• Brake cleaner spray
• Drain pan

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts lubricant (anti-squeal) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and release the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks in front of and behind a front tire.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap sitting loosely on top to reduce splashes.
• Break the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the rear and remove both rear wheels

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper jacking point, then support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.
• Do one side at a time if you prefer.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (pads exposed)

• Turn the steering wheel isn’t needed for rears; just access the caliper from behind the hub.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord (do not let it hang by the hose).

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide out the old pads from the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “lands” (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray with a drain pan underneath.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 14mm socket, breaker bar (1/2"), and socket extension as needed.
• Set the bracket on a clean surface.

Step 5: Remove the old rotor

• If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them using an impact driver with JIS #3 bit (specialty). (JIS is a Japanese screw standard; the correct bit prevents stripping.)
• Pull the rotor off. If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat evenly with a rubber mallet to break it free.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor braking surfaces with brake cleaner spray to remove shipping oil.
• Slide the rotor onto the hub. If you have retaining screws, reinstall them using the impact driver with JIS #3 bit (specialty) (snug only).
• To keep the rotor from wobbling, thread on 1-2 lug nuts by hand and snug with a 19mm socket.

Step 7: Service the bracket and slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand; use nitrile gloves.
• Wipe old grease off, then apply fresh brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease).
• Reinstall slide pins and make sure they move smoothly.
• Install new hardware clips onto the bracket.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Install the bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten with a 14mm socket and ratchet, then final tighten using a torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-150 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Compress (rewind) the rear caliper piston

• Check the brake fluid reservoir; remove a little fluid into a drain pan if it’s near the MAX line.
• Use a caliper piston rewind tool (specialty) to rotate the piston clockwise while pushing inward. (This tool “screws” the piston back in so the new pads fit.)
• Stop when the piston is fully seated and the piston face slots are aligned so the inner pad can sit correctly.
• Don’t use a C-clamp alone on rear pistons.

Step 10: Install new pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant (anti-squeal) to the pad backing plates where they contact the caliper/bracket (do not get any on pad friction material).
• Install the inner and outer pads into the new hardware clips by hand.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet, then final tighten with a torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-150 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 2 through 11 on the other rear wheel.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-150 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm it holds and releases normally.
• Test drive at low speed first, checking for noise, pulling, or a soft pedal.
• Pad bedding (recommended): do 6-8 moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, allowing a little cooling time between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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