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2015 Toyota Camry
2007 - 2017 Toyota Camry
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2015 TOYOTA Camry Rear Brake Pads and Rotors Replacement Part 1

2015 TOYOTA Camry Rear Brake Pads and Rotors Replacement Part 1

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
3/8
3/8
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2007-2017 Toyota Camry

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth brake job

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2007-2017 Toyota Camry

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth brake job for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Camry - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then reinstall everything with the correct torque. This restores braking performance and prevents vibration, noise, and uneven pad wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: factory rear disc brakes with cable parking brake (no EPB).


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car on jack stands before going under or removing wheels.
  • ⚠️ Chock the front wheels; you’ll release the parking brake to service the rear brakes.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (it can pop the piston out).
  • ⚠️ Hybrid precaution: power the car OFF and keep the key/fob away from the car so it can’t “wake up” unexpectedly.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • C-clamp (6")
  • Caliper hanger hook
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Small bungee cord

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
  • Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the car to OFF.
  • Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Release the parking brake before starting rear brake work.
  • Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level (you’ll push pistons back, and the level may rise).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the rear

  • Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn (don’t remove them yet).
  • Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear jacking point.
  • Set the car down securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take both rear wheels off.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (do not let it hang)

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed; rear access is straight on.
  • Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket, then support it with a caliper hanger hook or small bungee cord.
  • A caliper hanger prevents hose damage.

Step 3: Remove old brake pads and hardware

  • Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
  • Remove the old pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
  • Clean the bracket pad “shelves” (where clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Use a 17mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
  • Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
  • When reinstalling later: Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the old rotor

  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
  • If it’s stuck from rust, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray, then tap the rotor hat evenly with a rubber mallet until it breaks free.
  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat (this prevents vibration).

Step 6: Install the new rotor

  • Spray the new rotor braking surfaces with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels (removes shipping oil).
  • Place the new rotor onto the hub.
  • To hold the rotor while you work, thread on one lug nut by hand (use the 21mm socket later to remove it).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket with new hardware clips

  • Install the new pad clips/hardware onto the bracket.
  • Reinstall the bracket over the rotor and start the bolts by hand.
  • Tighten with a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Check and grease the slide pins

  • Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
  • Wipe old grease off with shop towels, then apply fresh brake caliper slide pin grease.
  • Reinsert pins and make sure they glide smoothly (this prevents uneven pad wear).

Step 9: Compress the rear caliper piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
  • Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
  • Go slow to avoid reservoir overflow.
  • A C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses parts together; here it pushes the piston back.

Step 10: Install new pads

  • Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket.
  • Make sure the pads slide freely in the new clips (if tight, re-clean clip seats using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush).

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

  • Set the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten using a 14mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Press the brake pedal firmly 10-15 times until it feels normal (this seats the pads against the rotors).
  • Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
  • Re-apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm normal feel.
  • Test drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
  • Pad break-in (bedding): make 6-10 moderate stops from 30-5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 150-200 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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