How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2006-2010 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, parking brake tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2006-2010 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, parking brake tips, and torque specs for 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010
🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the rear calipers/brackets, swap the rotors, then install new pads with fresh hardware. This restores stopping power and prevents pulsation or grinding when rotors are worn, warped, or rust-lipped.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the Explorer on jack stands before going under it.
- ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (your Explorer uses a drum-style parking brake inside the rotor “hat”).
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (it can push the piston out).
- ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) x2
- 21mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
- 13mm socket
- 13mm box wrench
- 18mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- 6" extension (3/8" drive)
- Large C-clamp (6" minimum)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Brake cleaner spray
- Micrometer or vernier caliper (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
- Parking brake shoes (optional, if worn/contaminated) - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
- Release the parking brake fully.
- Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn (don’t remove yet).
- Lift the rear with a floor jack and support the frame on jack stands.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; be ready to remove a little fluid if it rises when compressing pistons.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear wheels
- Use a 21mm socket and remove the lug nuts, then remove both rear wheels.
Step 2: Remove the caliper (don’t let it hang)
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed; rear access is straight-on.
- Use a 13mm socket to remove the two caliper slide bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord (do not stretch the brake hose).
- Tip: Take a quick photo of pad orientation.
Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand (use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if stuck).
- Remove the old pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
Step 4: Compress the caliper piston
- Place one old brake pad against the piston face.
- Use a large C-clamp to slowly compress the piston fully into the caliper.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir; if it gets too full, remove a small amount to prevent overflow.
Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket
- Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
- Remove the bracket and set it aside.
- Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
- Reinstall later and Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Remove the rotor (and handle the parking brake setup)
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
- If it’s rust-stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break it free.
- If the rotor won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it:
- Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver through the access slot (if present) to back off the star adjuster slightly until the rotor loosens.
Step 7: Prep the hub and install the new rotor
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the rotor sits flat.
- Apply a very thin smear of anti-seize compound to the hub center (avoid the wheel studs and rotor braking surface).
- Install the new rotor onto the hub.
- Tip: Clean new rotors with brake cleaner first.
Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads
- Snap the new pad clips/hardware into the bracket.
- Apply a light film of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) where the pad ears contact the clips (not on the friction material).
- Install the new pads into the bracket in the same positions as removed.
Step 9: Service slide pins and reinstall caliper bracket
- Pull the slide pins out (they’re the smooth pins the caliper “floats” on), wipe old grease off, and re-grease with brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
- Reinstall the bracket using an 18mm socket.
- Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Reinstall caliper
- Position the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket while holding the slide pin flats (if they spin) with a 13mm box wrench.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Repeat on the other side
- Repeat Steps 2-10 on the other rear wheel.
- Tip: Do one side at a time for reference.
Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the Explorer to the ground using the floor jack.
- Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Press the brake pedal slowly 8-10 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
- Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
- Test the parking brake hold on a gentle incline, then release it and ensure the rear wheels spin freely when lifted (no dragging).
- Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6-8 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, with 30 seconds of driving between stops to cool.
- Recheck for leaks, unusual noises, and verify lug torque after 50-100 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2010 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |
| 2009 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |
| 2008 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |
| 2007 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |
| 2006 Ford Explorer | - | - | - |


















