🔧 Impala - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the caliper and bracket, replace the pads, and swap the rotors. This restores braking performance and helps stop vibration or grinding from worn pads/warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands before working underneath.
• 🛑 Keep the parking brake released during the job, or the rotor may not come off.
• 🛑 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hanger.
• 🛑 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Watch the brake fluid level when compressing pistons; don’t overflow the reservoir.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• 19mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Socket set 8mm-19mm
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Wire brush
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6 inch minimum)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Dead-blow hammer
• Bungee cord

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the key off, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Leave the cap loosely set on top (not tightened).
• Loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift one rear corner using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket and ratchet 3/8".

Step 2: Remove the caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed on the rear; just work straight-on.
• Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it using a brake caliper hanger hook. A caliper hanger is a hook that holds the caliper so the brake hose isn’t strained.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless abutment clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 15mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
• Set the bracket aside.
• Torque on install: Torque to 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
• If it’s rust-stuck, tap around the rotor hat using a dead-blow hammer.
• If the rotor won’t come off, confirm the parking brake is fully released. The Impala uses a drum-in-hat parking brake inside the rotor, and it can hold the rotor on.
• Tip: Tap, rotate, tap again.

Step 6: Clean and prep the hub surface

• Clean rust off the hub face using a wire brush.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner and wipe clean.
• Tip: Clean hub = less brake pulsation.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove packing oil.
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
• To hold the rotor in place while you work, thread on one lug nut by hand (use the wheel’s lug nut) and snug it lightly using a 19mm socket.

Step 8: Service the bracket and install new hardware

• Install new abutment clips onto the bracket by hand.
• Pull the caliper slide pins out (if accessible), clean them, and apply a thin coat of brake lubricant.
• Reinstall the bracket over the rotor and start bolts by hand, then tighten using a 15mm socket and torque wrench 1/2".
• Torque: Torque to 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face, then compress the piston slowly using a C-clamp (6 inch minimum).
• Go slow and watch the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood.
• Tip: Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Apply a light film of brake lubricant to pad “ears” where they contact the abutment clips.
• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
• Lower the caliper onto the new pads.
• Install and tighten the caliper guide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench 1/2".
• Torque: Torque to 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding the rotor using a 19mm socket.
• Install the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the car and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2".
• Torque: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–11 on the opposite rear side.
• Replace pads and rotors as an axle set (both rears together).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm.
• Do a cautious test drive. Listen for scraping and verify straight, smooth braking.
• Bed-in the pads: make 5–8 moderate stops from 30–40 mph with cool-down driving between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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