How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2005-2016 Honda CR-V
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and caliper piston wind-back tips
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2005-2016 Honda CR-V
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and caliper piston wind-back tips for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 CR-V - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear calipers and brackets, replace the rotors and pads, then retract the rear caliper pistons correctly so everything fits back together. On your CR-V, the rear caliper piston must be rotated while pushing in (it’s tied to the parking brake mechanism), so the right tool matters.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- ⚠️ Support the CR-V with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Release the parking brake fully before starting, or you can damage parts.
- ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the hose—support it with a hook/strap.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
- 19mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 10mm wrench
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Impact screwdriver (hand impact) (specialty)
- Phillips #3 bit
- Rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Bungee cord or mechanics wire
- Flathead screwdriver
- Rubber mallet
- Drain pan
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
- Brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
- Brake hardware kit (rear) - Qty: 1
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, and make sure the parking brake is released.
- Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
- Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s near “MAX,” be ready to remove a little fluid (it rises when pistons retract).
- Tip: Take a quick photo of each side first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear center jack point.
- Set the rear onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear support points.
- Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (keep it supported)
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed; you’re working at the rear.
- Remove the caliper slide bolts using a 12mm socket.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord or mechanics wire (do not pull on the hose).
- Tip: If it’s stuck, wiggle—don’t pry the hose.
Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware
- Remove the brake pads from the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if needed).
- Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
- Clean the bracket pad “rails” with a wire brush, then spray with brake cleaner.
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
- Set the bracket aside.
- When reinstalling later: Torque to 80 N·m (59 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the rotor
- If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them using an impact screwdriver (hand impact) (specialty) with a Phillips #3 bit.
- Pull the rotor off the hub. If it’s rust-stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break it free.
Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.
- Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (avoid studs and braking surfaces).
- Install the new rotor onto the hub. If you have retaining screws, reinstall them using the impact screwdriver (hand impact) (specialty).
- Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil.
Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware
- Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket.
- Torque to 80 N·m (59 ft-lbs).
- Install new abutment clips from the brake hardware kit (rear).
- Apply a light coat of brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) where the pad ears touch the clips.
Step 8: Retract (wind back) the rear caliper piston
- This is important: the rear piston must be turned while pushing in.
- Use a rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty) to rotate the piston clockwise while pressing it inward until fully seated.
- If brake fluid rises close to overflowing, siphon a little into a drain pan (do not spill on paint).
- Tip: Go slow—forcing it can damage the caliper.
Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
- Apply brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) to the pad backing plate contact points (not the friction material).
- Slide the caliper back over the pads.
- Install the caliper slide bolts using a 12mm socket.
- Torque to 26 N·m (19 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Repeat on the other side
- Repeat Steps 2–9 for the other rear wheel.
- Tip: Do one side at a time to avoid mixing parts.
Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the CR-V
- Reinstall both rear wheels using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the CR-V off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range): Torque to 108 N·m (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
- Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
- Apply and release the parking brake several times to confirm normal operation.
- Test drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
- Brake bed-in (recommended): do 6–8 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$400 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2016 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2015 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2014 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2013 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2012 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2011 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2010 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2009 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2008 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2007 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2006 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |
| 2005 Honda CR-V | - | - | - |


















