How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2004-2012 Chevrolet Malibu (Trim: SS)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, rear caliper piston rewind tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2004-2012 Chevrolet Malibu (Trim: SS)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, rear caliper piston rewind tips, and torque specs for 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012
🔧 Malibu - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear calipers, replace the brake pads, swap the rotors, then reinstall everything with the correct torque. On your Malibu, the one “gotcha” is the rear caliper piston/parking brake design—some require the piston to be turned (not just pushed) to retract.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
- ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- ⚠️ Keep the parking brake RELEASED during disassembly.
- ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 3/8" (10-100 ft-lbs)
- Torque wrench 1/2" (50-150 ft-lbs)
- 19mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 18mm socket
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Ratchet 1/2"
- Flathead screwdriver
- C-clamp 6"
- Rear disc brake piston rewind tool (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Bungee cord
- Rubber mallet
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Rear caliper bracket hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
- Medium-strength threadlocker - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the front wheels with wheel chocks, and leave the parking brake released.
- Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid level—when you push the pistons back, the level will rise.
- Tip: Put a rag around the brake reservoir.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
- Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jack point.
- Set the car down on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2".
Step 2: Remove the caliper
- Turn the steering wheel slightly if you need more hand room (front wheels stay on ground).
- Locate the two rear caliper slide bolts and remove them using a 13mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
- Lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
- Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord (do not let it dangle by the hose).
Step 3: Remove the pads and caliper bracket
- Remove the old pads from the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver if needed).
- Remove the caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
- Set the bracket aside.
Step 4: Remove the rotor
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
- If it’s stuck from rust, tap the rotor “hat” with a rubber mallet to break it free.
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
Step 5: Prep and install the new rotor
- Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe it clean.
- Install the new rotor onto the hub.
- To hold it in place, thread on one lug nut by hand (use the wheel’s lug nut) and snug it with a 19mm socket.
- Tip: This keeps the rotor from wobbling.
Step 6: Reinstall the caliper bracket (and new hardware)
- Install new pad abutment clips from the hardware kit onto the bracket (these are the stainless clips the pads slide on).
- Reinstall the bracket and start the bolts by hand.
- Tighten bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).
- If the bolts are not pre-coated, apply medium-strength threadlocker to clean threads.
Step 7: Retract the rear caliper piston (most important step)
- Look at the piston face. If it has two small notches and won’t push in easily, it must be turned while pushing.
- Twist-in style (common for rear parking brake calipers): Use a rear disc brake piston rewind tool (specialty) to rotate the piston clockwise while applying inward pressure until fully seated.
- Push-in style: Use a C-clamp 6" and the old inner pad to slowly press the piston straight in.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while doing this—do not let it overflow.
Step 8: Install new pads and lubricate contact points
- Apply a thin film of brake lubricant (silicone-based) to the pad “ears” where they touch the stainless clips.
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
- Do not get lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor.
Step 9: Reinstall the caliper
- Slide the caliper over the new pads.
- Reinstall the caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench 3/8": Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs).
- Make sure the caliper slides move freely by hand.
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Restore pedal feel
- With the engine off, pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm.
- Apply and release the parking brake a few times to help the rear mechanism self-set.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm (it may sink slightly with vacuum assist).
- Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
- Do a cautious test drive: first at 5-10 mph, then 25-35 mph, listening for grinding or pulling.
- Pad bedding (break-in): do 6-8 medium stops from 35 to 5 mph, letting brakes cool 30-60 seconds between stops.
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $310-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Chevrolet vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2012 Chevrolet Malibu | LS | - | - |
| 2012 Chevrolet Malibu | LT | - | - |
| 2012 Chevrolet Malibu | LTZ | - | - |
| 2011 Chevrolet Malibu | LS | - | - |
| 2011 Chevrolet Malibu | LT | - | - |
| 2011 Chevrolet Malibu | LTZ | - | - |
| 2010 Chevrolet Malibu | LS | - | - |
| 2010 Chevrolet Malibu | LT | - | - |
| 2010 Chevrolet Malibu | LTZ | - | - |
| 2010 Chevrolet Malibu | Hybrid | - | - |
| 2009 Chevrolet Malibu | LS | - | - |
| 2009 Chevrolet Malibu | LT | - | - |
| 2009 Chevrolet Malibu | LTZ | - | - |
| 2009 Chevrolet Malibu | Hybrid | - | - |
| 2008 Chevrolet Malibu | LS | - | - |
| 2008 Chevrolet Malibu | LT | - | - |
| 2008 Chevrolet Malibu | LTZ | - | - |
| 2008 Chevrolet Malibu | Classic LT | - | - |
| 2008 Chevrolet Malibu | Hybrid | - | - |
| 2007 Chevrolet Malibu | LS | - | - |
| 2007 Chevrolet Malibu | LT | - | - |
| 2007 Chevrolet Malibu | LTZ | - | - |
| 2007 Chevrolet Malibu | SS | - | - |
| 2006 Chevrolet Malibu | LS | - | - |
| 2006 Chevrolet Malibu | LT | - | - |
| 2006 Chevrolet Malibu | LTZ | - | - |
| 2006 Chevrolet Malibu | SS | - | - |
| 2004 Chevrolet Malibu | LS | - | - |
| 2004 Chevrolet Malibu | LT | - | - |
| 2004 Chevrolet Malibu | Maxx | - | - |


















