🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, swapping the rear brake pads, and replacing the rear brake rotors on your Altima. This is a straightforward job, but you must support the car safely and torque the brake fasteners correctly so the brakes work quietly and evenly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Brake dust is harmful; use nitrile gloves and safety glasses, and use brake cleaner (don’t blow dust with air).
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let everything cool before touching.
• 🧱 Chock the front wheels and release the parking brake before rear brake work.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, pair)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Ratchet 1/2"
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Socket extension set
• Flathead screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• High-temperature silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and chock both front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully (rear brakes won’t come apart correctly if it’s applied).
• Open the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top).
• Confirm you’re doing both rear sides (recommended): replace pads/rotors in pairs.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the rear

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to loosen the rear lug nuts about 1/2 turn (don’t remove yet).
• Lift the rear with the floor jack and place the car securely on jack stands.
• Remove the wheels using the 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel straight (rear doesn’t steer, but it keeps the car stable).
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord.
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.
• Reinstall torque later: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 3: Remove pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer brake pads out by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck).
• Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket.
• Use brake cleaner (from your parts list) and a wire brush to clean the bracket pad “shelves” where the clips sit.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 19mm socket, ratchet 1/2", and socket extension to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Reinstall torque later: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the rear rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck, tap around the rotor “hat” with a rubber mallet to break rust free.
• If the rotor still won’t come off, double-check the parking brake is fully released.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face (this helps prevent pedal vibration).
• Spray the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner and wipe clean (removes shipping oil).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• Thread on one lug nut by hand to hold the rotor flush while you work.

Step 7: Service slide pins and reinstall the bracket with new hardware

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Clean the pins and bores with brake cleaner, then apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the smooth pin areas only.
• Install the new hardware clips from the rear brake hardware kit onto the bracket.
• Reinstall the bracket using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston back until it bottoms out.
• Go slow to avoid overflowing the reservoir.
• If the piston will not push in smoothly, stop and tell me what you see on the piston face (some rear calipers require a “rotate while pushing” tool).

Step 9: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Apply a very thin film of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the pad ears (the metal ends that touch the clips).
• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the two slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench 1/2".
• Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Before moving the car, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Do a careful test drive: start with low-speed stops and confirm there are no noises, pulling, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (recommended): make 6-10 medium stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, with short cool-down driving between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹35,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹8,000-₹20,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹10,000-₹15,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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