🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

On your Altima, the rear brake pads clamp the rotor to slow the car. If pads are thin, rotors are scored/rusted, or you feel pulsation, replacing pads and rotors together restores smooth, safe braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat surface and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers won’t come off easily if it’s engaged).
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—avoid blowing it with compressed air; use brake cleaner instead.
• ⚠️ If brake fluid overflows when compressing the piston, clean immediately (it damages paint).
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1 Recommended
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/4 turn using a 21mm socket before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir; if it’s near “MAX,” be ready to remove a little with a clean towel as the piston is pushed back.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the car

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands and verify it’s stable before you work.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Inspect the rear brake assembly

• Turn the steering wheel is not applicable here; you’ll work straight-on at the rear.
• Look for leaks at the caliper and check pad thickness.
• Take a photo before disassembly.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (do not open the brake hose)

• Remove the lower and upper caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Lift the caliper off the pads and rotor.
• Support the caliper with a caliper hanger hook (specialty) so the hose isn’t strained.
• Torque on install: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if needed).
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the pad ears slide) using a wire brush and brake cleaner.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and a breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• Torque on install: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• If the rotor is stuck from rust, spray the hub area with brake cleaner and tap the rotor “hat” area with a rubber mallet until it breaks free.
• Remove the rotor from the hub.

Step 7: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean rust off the hub face using a wire brush. This helps prevent brake pulsation.
• Clean the new rotor faces with brake cleaner and shop towels (removes shipping oil).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware

• Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 19mm socket.
• Torque: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs)
• Install new pad clips/hardware into the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver only if needed).
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone) where pads slide on the clips. Do not grease rotor or pad friction.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Using a C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty), slowly push the caliper piston straight back into the caliper.
• A “piston compressor” is a tool that pushes the piston back in evenly so the new thicker pads fit.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level as you compress the piston.

Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Set the caliper back over the new pads and rotor.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 21mm socket.
• Torque: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)

---

✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test the parking brake operation and verify it releases fully.
• Do a careful road test: start slow, confirm no pulling, grinding, or vibration.
• Brake pad break-in: do 6-10 moderate stops from 35 to 10 mph, with cooling time between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles if possible.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.