🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

On your Altima, the rear brake pads squeeze the rotors to slow the car, and both wear over time. Replacing pads and rotors together restores braking performance and helps prevent noise, vibration, and uneven wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake OFF during the job or the rotor may not come off.
• ⚠️ Do not breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a mask.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the hose—support it with a hook/strap.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 6" socket extension
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair)
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone or ceramic) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in 1st gear, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (just set it on top). This helps the caliper piston retract.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear with a floor jack at the rear jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands under the rear support points.
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed (rear), just give yourself space.
• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Never hang the caliper by the hose.

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck.
• Remove the pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) with a wire brush and spray with brake parts cleaner.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two bracket bolts using a 19mm socket, breaker bar, and extension.
• Set the bracket aside on a towel.
• Torque to 98 N·m (72 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck, thread the two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s push-off holes and tighten evenly with a ratchet until the rotor pops loose.
• If it still won’t come off, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet while pulling outward.
• If the rotor is held by the parking brake shoes, confirm the parking brake is OFF. (Your Altima uses a small drum-style parking brake inside the rotor “hat.”)

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean rust off the hub face with a wire brush, then spray with brake parts cleaner and wipe with shop towels.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (avoid the wheel studs).
• Clean the new rotor with brake parts cleaner to remove packaging oil.
• Install the new rotor. To hold it tight while you work, thread on 1-2 lug nuts backward by hand (use the 21mm socket to snug lightly).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new hardware

• Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 19mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 98 N·m (72 ft-lbs).
• Install the new pad clips into the bracket.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant where the pads touch the clips (not on pad friction material).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the caliper piston, then compress the piston slowly using a C-clamp brake piston compressor.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid level under the hood; remove excess if it gets too high.
• Slow compression helps prevent seal damage.

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket (inner and outer) by hand.
• Apply a small amount of brake lubricant to the pad backing plate contact points (where they touch the caliper/bracket).
• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 N·m (18 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 113 N·m (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test the parking brake operation (it should hold the car firmly).
• Do a careful test drive: start at low speed and confirm no pulling, grinding, or pedal sinking.
• Pad bed-in (recommended): make 6–10 gentle stops from 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing a little cooling time between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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