🔧 Camry - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

This job replaces the rear brake pads and rotors so your A4—sorry, your Camry—can stop smoothly and quietly again. The only catch: some Camry trims have rear drum brakes (no rotors), so we’ll confirm what you have before you buy parts.

Quick check: Look through a rear wheel—if you see a shiny flat disc and a caliper, you have rotors. If you see a mostly closed “bowl,” you have drums.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• Release the parking brake before rear rotor removal, or the rotor may not come off.
• Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• If brake fluid is near “MAX,” watch for overflow when compressing caliper pistons.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6")
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (2-pack, 25-40mm long)
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released (rear rotors won’t come off if it’s applied).
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir so you can monitor the level during piston compression.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear at the proper jacking point using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and shake the car gently to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Confirm you have rear disc brakes (rotors)

• If you see a brake caliper squeezing a flat disc, continue.
• If you see a closed drum (no caliper/rotor), stop here and tell me—you need a rear drum shoe & drum procedure instead.

Step 3: Remove the caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed; you’re working in the rear.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord (never let it hang by the hose).

Step 4: Remove pads and caliper bracket

• Remove the old pads and any shims/clips using a flathead screwdriver if needed.
• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside and keep track of the hardware orientation.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If the rotor is stuck, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
• If it’s still stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s push-off holes evenly and tighten them with a ratchet to press the rotor off the hub.
• Make sure the parking brake is released if the rotor won’t come off.

Step 6: Clean the hub and prep the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
• Spray the new rotor braking surfaces with brake cleaner and wipe with shop towels to remove protective oil.

Step 7: Install the new rotor and bracket

• Install the new rotor onto the hub and hold it in place with one lug nut hand-tight (use a 21mm socket).
• Reinstall the caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check brake fluid level at the reservoir.
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly push the caliper piston back in. A C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses the piston in so the new thicker pads will fit.
• Go slow and keep the piston straight so it doesn’t bind.

Step 9: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install new pad clips from the rear brake hardware kit onto the bracket.
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) where the pad “ears” slide on the clips (do not get grease on the pad friction material).
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Set the caliper over the new pads and align the slide pins.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Do a careful test drive: start at low speed and confirm normal braking with no pulling or grinding.
• Pad break-in (recommended): make 6-10 medium stops from 30 mph to 5 mph, with light driving between stops. Don’t hold brakes stopped when hot.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$250 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.