🔧 Regal - Headlight Bulb Replacement (Both Sides)

You’ll be replacing the left and right headlight bulbs. On your Regal, access is usually from behind the headlamp (some bulbs are easiest through the front wheel well), and the key is not touching the glass of the new bulb.

Assumption: Your Regal has either HID (Xenon) low beams or halogen low beams depending on headlamp package; steps below cover both.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0–2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Turn lights OFF and let bulbs cool 10–15 minutes before touching anything.
• ⚠️ If equipped with HID/Xenon low beams, the system can generate high voltage—disconnect the battery before opening the headlamp rear cover.
• ⚠️ Never touch the glass of a halogen or HID bulb with bare fingers; skin oils can shorten bulb life. Use gloves.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before working in the wheel well.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
• 7mm socket
• Torx T20 driver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Low beam bulb (Halogen option) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Low beam bulb (HID/Xenon option) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• High beam bulb (Halogen) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front fender liner clips (assorted) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Turn the headlight switch to OFF and remove the key/fob from the car.
• Open the hood and gather your new bulbs (keep them in the package until install).
• If you have HID/Xenon low beams: use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable (negative “-” terminal) and isolate it so it can’t spring back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front corner and remove the wheel (for wheel-well access)

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet to loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Open the fender liner access to the back of the headlamp

• Turn the steering wheel away from the side you’re working on to create space.
• Use a 7mm socket and Torx T20 driver to remove the small screws along the front portion of the fender liner.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out any plastic push-clips.
• Gently peel the liner back just enough to reach the round rear dust cap(s) on the headlamp. Don’t crease the liner sharply.

Step 3: Remove the rear dust cap

• Use your hand (or a small flathead screwdriver carefully) to rotate the dust cap counterclockwise and pull it off.
• Set the cap aside where it stays clean and dry.

Step 4: Replace the LOW beam bulb (Halogen or HID depending on your headlamp)

• Put on nitrile gloves.
• Disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight back (use a small flathead screwdriver only if needed to help lift the tab).
• Halogen low beam: rotate the bulb counterclockwise and pull it straight out.
• HID/Xenon low beam: rotate the bulb/igniter unit counterclockwise and pull it out carefully. (The igniter is the small “power unit” attached to the bulb.)
• Install the new bulb by aligning the tabs, inserting fully, then rotate clockwise to lock.
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
• If you accidentally touch the glass, clean with alcohol.

Step 5: Replace the HIGH beam bulb

• Move to the high beam access cover/opening on the same headlamp (it may be a separate dust cap).
• Remove the cover by hand (twist counterclockwise).
• Disconnect the connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight back.
• Rotate the bulb counterclockwise and remove it.
• Install the new high beam bulb (no touching glass), rotate clockwise to lock, and reconnect the connector.

Step 6: Reinstall dust caps (critical for moisture protection)

• Reinstall each dust cap and rotate clockwise until fully seated.
• Make sure the rubber seal is seated evenly all the way around. This prevents fogging.

Step 7: Reassemble the fender liner and reinstall the wheel

• Reposition the fender liner and reinstall clips with the trim clip removal tool (press to seat) and screws with the 7mm socket / Torx T20 driver.
• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 1–7 for the opposite headlamp.

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✅ After Repair

• If you disconnected the battery (HID): reconnect the negative cable using a 10mm socket and tighten snugly.
• Turn headlights ON and verify: low beams, high beams, and no flicker.
• Check for moisture inside the headlamp over the next day—if you see fogging, a dust cap may not be sealed.
• If beam aim looks off after bulb replacement, have headlamp aim checked (especially with HID).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180–$450 (parts + labor, higher if HID)

DIY Cost: $40–$220 (parts only, depends on halogen vs HID)

You Save: $140–$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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