How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2020 Nissan Rogue (Step-by-Step)
Complete DIY ignition coil replacement guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and troubleshooting steps
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2020 Nissan Rogue (Step-by-Step)
Complete DIY ignition coil replacement guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and troubleshooting steps


đź”§ Rogue - Ignition Coil Replacement
You’ll be replacing the ignition coils on your Rogue by removing the engine cover, disconnecting each coil, and swapping them one by one. This will help fix misfires, rough idle, or coil-related check engine lights.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🔋 Always work on a cool engine to avoid burns from hot parts.
- 🔌 Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key before starting.
- đź”§ Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you are nervous about working around live electrical connectors. This is optional but safer.
- 🔥 Keep metal tools away from the battery positive terminal to avoid short circuits.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension (3"-6")
- Flat trim tool or flathead screwdriver (small)
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm)
- Mechanic’s gloves
- Safety glasses
- Work light or flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil pack - Qty: 4 (replace all four together recommended)
- Dielectric grease (for ignition components) - Qty: 1 small tube
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park your Rogue on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
- Turn the engine off and let it cool for at least 20–30 minutes.
- If you prefer extra safety, use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and tuck the cable aside so it cannot spring back.
- Open the hood and secure it with the hood prop rod.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the plastic engine cover
- Locate the large black plastic cover on top of the engine.
- Use your hands to pull up sharply at the corners. It is held on by rubber grommets, not bolts.
- If it feels stuck, gently pry under an edge with a flat trim tool or small flathead screwdriver, being careful not to crack the cover.
- Lift the cover off and set it aside somewhere safe.
Step 2: Identify the ignition coils
- With the cover off, you will see four black coils lined up on top of the engine, each going down into the valve cover.
- Each coil has one small electrical connector and one small hold-down bolt.
- Coil = black stick-like part on top of spark plug
Step 3: Optional – Disconnect the battery negative terminal
- If you haven’t already, use a 10mm socket and ratchet to loosen the nut on the negative battery terminal.
- Lift the negative cable off and tuck it aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
- This reduces risk of short circuits or accidental cranking
Step 4: Unplug the electrical connector from the first coil
- Pick one coil to start with (usually cylinder 1 at the front of the engine, closest to the drive belt).
- Press down firmly on the small plastic tab on the connector with your thumb.
- While holding the tab, pull the connector straight back away from the coil. If it’s stuck, gently wiggle it while pulling.
- If needed, use a flathead screwdriver to lightly press the release tab, but do not pry hard or you may break it.
Step 5: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Locate the small bolt securing the coil to the valve cover.
- Use a 10mm socket, extension, and ratchet to loosen and remove the bolt.
- Set the bolt somewhere safe so it doesn’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 6: Remove the ignition coil
- Grab the top of the coil firmly with your hand.
- Pull straight up; it may feel stuck because of the rubber boot seal on the spark plug.
- Gently twist the coil left and right while pulling up if it’s stubborn.
- Once free, lift the coil out and set it aside.
Step 7: Prepare the new ignition coil
- Compare the old coil and the new coil to make sure they match in shape, connector location, and length.
- Place a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot at the spark plug end of the new coil. This helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.
- Use very little grease, not a big glob
Step 8: Install the new ignition coil
- Carefully insert the new coil straight down into the spark plug hole.
- Press down firmly until you feel the boot seat fully on the spark plug.
- Line up the mounting hole on the coil with the threaded hole in the valve cover.
Step 9: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt
- Start the coil bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 10mm socket, extension, and ratchet to snug the bolt down.
- Then use a torque wrench with the 10mm socket to tighten the bolt to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs).
- Do not overtighten; the threads are in aluminum
Step 10: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector straight onto the new coil until you hear or feel a click.
- Gently tug on the connector to confirm it is locked in place.
Step 11: Repeat for the remaining coils
- Repeat Steps 4–10 for each of the remaining three coils, doing them one at a time.
- One-at-a-time prevents mixing connectors and coils
Step 12: Reconnect the battery (if disconnected)
- Place the negative cable back on the battery negative post.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to tighten the nut until it is snug. Do not overtighten.
Step 13: Reinstall the engine cover
- Line up the rubber grommets on the underside of the cover with the mounting pegs on top of the engine.
- Press down firmly over each grommet area until the cover snaps into place.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle. It should run smoothly without misfires or shaking.
- If the check engine light was on for an ignition coil code, it may clear on its own after several drive cycles. If available, use a scan tool to clear any stored codes now.
- Take a short test drive, including light acceleration and steady cruising, and check that there is no hesitation or loss of power.
- After the drive, turn off the engine, open the hood, and visually recheck that all connectors are fully seated and the engine cover is secure.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$650 (parts + labor for all 4 coils)
DIY Cost: $160-$280 (parts only, all 4 coils)
You Save: $190-$370 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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