🔧 Palisade - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Palisade has one ignition coil per cylinder (6 total). The front-bank coils are straightforward to reach; the rear-bank coils sit against the firewall and typically require removing the upper intake manifold to access them.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
• ⚠️ If removing the upper intake manifold, keep dirt out of the intake ports (cover openings with clean shop towels).
• ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring; release connector locks before unplugging.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 1/4" ratchet
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3" socket extension
• 6" socket extension
• Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop towels
• Masking tape and marker
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1 (needed if rear-bank access requires manifold removal)
• Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1 (recommended if throttle body is removed)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 (optional)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and move the cable aside so it can’t spring back.
• Decide your access path: front-bank coils can be done without manifold removal; rear-bank coils typically require upper intake manifold removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine appearance cover

• Pull up firmly on the engine cover to release the rubber grommets (use a trim clip removal tool if it’s stubborn).
• Set the cover aside.

Step 2: Gain access to the coils (front bank)

• Loosen the intake duct clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Disconnect any small breather/PCV hoses carefully using needle-nose pliers if clamps are tight.
• Move the ducting out of the way to clearly see the front-bank coils.

Step 3: If you need rear-bank coils, remove the upper intake manifold (rear bank access)

• Label connectors and hoses with masking tape and marker so they go back to the same place.
• Disconnect electrical connectors in the way (release the lock tab before pulling).
• Remove fasteners and brackets as needed using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Remove the upper intake manifold mounting bolts using a 12mm socket and socket extension.
• Lift the upper intake manifold off carefully and set it on a clean surface.
• Immediately cover exposed intake openings with shop towels.
• Plan to install new upper intake manifold gaskets during reassembly.

Step 4: Unplug the ignition coil connector

• Press the connector lock and pull the connector straight off the coil.
• If the lock is stubborn, use a flat-blade screwdriver gently—don’t break the plastic.

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil

• Remove the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
• Twist the coil slightly, then pull it straight up to unseat the boot from the spark plug.
• Tip: Don’t pry on the valve cover.

Step 6: Install the new ignition coil

• If you’re using it, apply a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the coil boot (it helps prevent moisture/corrosion; don’t pack it full).
• Push the new coil straight down until you feel it seat onto the spark plug.
• Install the hold-down bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the coil bolt using a torque wrench (a torque wrench measures bolt tightness accurately): Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs).
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 7: Reassemble (rear bank, if removed)

• Remove the shop towels from the intake openings.
• Install new upper intake manifold gaskets in their grooves.
• Set the upper intake manifold in place evenly (don’t pinch wiring/hoses).
• Thread manifold bolts in by hand, then tighten evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 12mm socket.
• If your Palisade’s fasteners are the common M8 manifold bolts: Torque to 23-25 Nm (17-18 ft-lbs).
• Reconnect all labeled hoses/connectors and reinstall brackets using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.

Step 8: Reinstall intake ducting and engine cover

• Reinstall the intake ducting and tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Reinstall the engine cover by aligning the grommets and pressing down firmly.

Step 9: Reconnect the battery

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and snug it securely.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and listen for a smooth idle (no shaking/misfire).
• Check that no warning lights appear after a short drive.
• If you had a misfire before, clear codes with a scan tool and confirm the misfire does not return.
• Recheck that all intake clamps and hoses are secure (no hissing/air leak sound).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$900 (parts + labor, depends on how many coils and rear-bank access)

DIY Cost: $50-$480 (parts only, 1-6 coils + gaskets if needed)

You Save: $200-$420+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.