How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2020 Ford Escape 1.5L 3-Cylinder
Step-by-step DIY coil replacement with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2020 Ford Escape 1.5L 3-Cylinder
Step-by-step DIY coil replacement with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings
🔧 Escape - Ignition Coil Replacement
You’ll be removing the plastic engine cover, unplugging the coil electrical connectors, and swapping each ignition coil on top of the spark plugs. This will help fix misfires, rough idle, and some check-engine light issues if the coils are bad.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Always work with the engine off, transmission in Park, and the parking brake set.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool at least 30–45 minutes to avoid burns from hot parts.
- ⚠️ Avoid pulling on the wires; only pull on connectors and plastic housings.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you’re worried about short circuits or accidental cranking.
- ⚠️ Keep metal tools away from the battery positive terminal to prevent sparks.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 🔹Ratchet handle (3/8" drive)
- 🔹8mm socket
- 🔹10mm socket
- 🔹6" extension (3/8" drive)
- 🔹Torque wrench (inch-lb and ft-lb capable)
- 🔹Flat trim tool or plastic pry tool
- 🔹Small flathead screwdriver
- 🔹Dielectric grease packet
- 🔹Shop rag
- 🔹Mechanic’s gloves
- 🔹Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 🔹Ignition coil (coil-on-plug) set, 1.5L 3-cylinder - Qty: 3
- 🔹Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube
- 🔹Optional: Spark plug set, 1.5L 3-cylinder - Qty: 3
- 🔹Optional: Engine cover push pins/clips - Qty: 2–4 (if any break)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Turn the ignition fully off and remove the key or turn off the start/stop button.
- Open the hood and secure it with the hood prop rod.
- If you choose, disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket:
- Loosen the nut and lift the cable off the negative battery post.
- Wrap the cable end in a rag so it cannot spring back.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Stand at the front of the Escape and look at the top of the engine; you’ll see a large plastic cover.
- Use your hands to pull straight up at the corners of the cover; it is held by rubber grommets on pegs.
- If it feels stuck, gently help it with a flat trim tool near the edges, prying upward carefully.
- Lift the cover off and set it aside somewhere safe.
- Pull straight up, not sideways, to avoid breaking tabs.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- With the cover off, you’ll see three black plastic coils lined up on top of the engine, each with a connector and a single small bolt.
- These sit directly on top of the spark plugs, one coil per cylinder.
- Work one coil at a time to avoid mixing parts.
Step 3: Unplug the electrical connector from the first coil
- Pick one coil to start with (front-most is easiest).
- Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lift the red locking tab (if equipped) on the connector.
- Press the main release tab on the connector with your thumb.
- While holding the tab, pull the connector straight off the coil by hand. Do not pull on the wires.
- Wiggle gently if the connector is stuck.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Place a 8mm socket on your ratchet with 6" extension.
- Remove the small bolt holding the coil to the engine.
- Set the bolt somewhere safe, like a magnetic tray or small container.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Grab the top of the coil and twist it gently left and right to break the seal.
- Pull the coil straight up and out of the spark plug well.
- Inspect the rubber boot for oil, coolant, or cracks:
- If you see oil in the well, you may have a valve cover gasket issue.
- If the boot is torn or cracked, the coil must be replaced.
Step 6: Prepare the new coil
- Compare the old coil to the new one to confirm:
- Same connector shape.
- Same mounting tab and bolt hole.
- Put a small dab of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil where it will contact the spark plug.
- Use just a thin smear, not a glob.
Step 7: Install the new coil
- Line up the new coil with the spark plug well.
- Push it straight down until you feel it seat firmly onto the spark plug.
- Reinstall the coil hold-down bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use your 8mm socket with ratchet to snug the bolt.
- Then use a torque wrench with 8mm socket to tighten to 7 Nm (62 in-lb).
- Do not overtighten; the bolt is small.
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector straight onto the coil until it clicks.
- If there is a red locking tab, push it back into the locked position with your finger.
- Gently tug the connector to confirm it is fully seated.
Step 9: Repeat for the remaining two coils
- Repeat Steps 3–8 for the second coil.
- Repeat again for the third coil.
- Always:
- Unplug connector.
- Remove 8mm bolt.
- Twist and pull out old coil.
- Install new coil with a bit of dielectric grease.
- Torque bolt to 7 Nm (62 in-lb).
- Reconnect connector and lock tab.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover
- Position the plastic engine cover back over the engine, lining up the holes on the underside with the rubber grommets on the engine.
- Press down firmly at each corner until you feel each corner pop into place.
- If any clips broke, replace them with new ones before refitting.
Step 11: Reconnect the battery (if disconnected)
- Place the negative battery cable back on the negative battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket with ratchet to tighten the clamp nut snugly.
- Do not overtighten; just firm enough that the clamp cannot rotate.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle. It should start smoothly and idle steadily without shaking.
- Look and listen under the hood for:
- No arcing or snapping sounds.
- No check engine light flashing.
- Take a short test drive:
- Check for smooth acceleration.
- Confirm there are no misfires or hesitation.
- If a check engine light stays on, you may need a code scan to clear stored misfire codes and confirm no other issues.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $280–$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120–$240 (parts only, full set of coils)
You Save: $160–$210 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8–1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections above to add everything to your cart.
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