How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Toyota Sequoia (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm (80 in-lb) torque spec for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Toyota Sequoia (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm (80 in-lb) torque spec for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 Sequoia - Ignition Coil Replacement
On your Sequoia, each cylinder has its own ignition coil (coil-on-plug). Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough running, and a flashing check-engine light, and it’s a straightforward job with basic hand tools.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; coils sit on a hot cylinder head.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring; release the connector lock first.
- ⚠️ If the check-engine light was flashing, avoid driving until repaired (can damage the catalytic converters).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range Nm)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver (small)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-8
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Ignition coil electrical connector lock clip - Qty: 0-8
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- If you’re replacing just one coil: note which cylinder is misfiring (from your code scan) so you don’t mix up locations.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Remove the engine appearance cover fasteners using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
- Lift the cover off and set it aside.
Step 2: Make space to reach the coils (as needed)
- For tighter access near the air intake tube, loosen hose clamps carefully using a flathead screwdriver (small).
- Release any plastic clips using a trim clip removal tool.
- Move the intake tube/ducting slightly aside without cracking it. Don’t force cold plastic.
Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil connector
- Find the coil on top of the valve cover; it looks like a small module going straight down into the engine.
- Press the connector release tab and pull the connector straight off.
- If the tab is stubborn, gently help it with a flathead screwdriver (small) (do not pry hard).
Step 4: Remove the coil retaining bolt
- Remove the coil bolt using a 10mm socket, 6" extension (1/4" drive), and 1/4" drive ratchet.
- Set the bolt aside where it won’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly to break the seal, then pull straight up by hand.
- If it’s stuck, wiggle gently—do not use a metal pry tool on the valve cover.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Put a small dab of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot. (A “boot” is the rubber sleeve that seals to the spark plug.)
- Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it
- Install the bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten using a torque wrench (in-lb or low-range Nm).
- Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks.
- Lightly tug the connector to confirm it’s locked.
Step 9: Repeat for any other coils, then reassemble
- Repeat Steps 3–8 for each coil you’re replacing.
- Reinstall any intake ducting/clips using the flathead screwdriver (small), needle-nose pliers, and trim clip removal tool as needed.
- Reinstall the engine cover using the 10mm socket.
Step 10: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and listen for smooth idle (no shaking).
- If you had a check-engine light, clear the codes and confirm the misfire does not return.
- Road test for 10–15 minutes, then recheck for warning lights.
- If it still misfires on the same cylinder, the next common items are the spark plug, injector, or wiring/connector damage.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$520 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$380 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















