How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Toyota Prius (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with required tools/parts, safety tips, and 80 in-lb (9 Nm) torque spec for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Toyota Prius (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with required tools/parts, safety tips, and 80 in-lb (9 Nm) torque spec for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
đź”§ Prius - Ignition Coil Replacement
On your Prius, each cylinder has its own ignition coil (coil-on-plug). A bad coil can cause misfires, rough running, and a flashing check-engine light, and replacing the faulty coil(s) restores smooth power and protects the catalytic converter.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before starting (hot parts burn).
- ⚠️ Keep the car OFF and the key/fob at least 10 feet away so it can’t go “READY” accidentally.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V negative battery terminal if you’ll unplug multiple connectors (recommended).
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring—always pull on the connector body.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" socket extension
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range ft-lb)
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop light
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Turn the car OFF and keep the key/fob away from the car.
- If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the 12V negative (-) terminal and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Take a quick photo of the area first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Lift the plastic engine cover straight up by hand. If it’s tight, use a flat trim tool gently at a corner to pop it up.
Step 2: Create working room (only if access is tight)
- Loosen the intake duct clamp(s) using needle-nose pliers (spring clamp style) or the appropriate clamp release if present.
- Move the intake duct/air tube out of the way without cracking it.
- If coils are clearly reachable, skip this step.
Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector
- Find the coil you’re replacing (top of the engine, one per cylinder).
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off.
- If it won’t release, use a flat trim tool to gently help lift the lock tab while pulling.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" socket extension to remove the bolt that holds the coil to the valve cover.
- Set the bolt somewhere safe so it can’t drop into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly left/right to break the seal, then pull straight up to remove it.
- If it feels stuck, keep twisting while pulling—don’t pry hard on the plastic.
Step 6: Install the new ignition coil
- Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot (the rubber part). This helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.
- Push the coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
- Reinstall the hold-down bolt by hand first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten with a 10mm socket.
- Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb) using a torque wrench.
Step 7: Reconnect the coil connector and reassemble
- Push the electrical connector on until it clicks.
- Reinstall any intake duct/air tube you moved and secure clamps using needle-nose pliers.
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it straight down.
Step 8: Reconnect the 12V battery (if disconnected)
- Reinstall the negative (-) battery terminal and tighten with a 10mm socket.
âś… After Repair
- Start the car normally and confirm the engine runs smooth (no shaking).
- If the check-engine light was on, it may take a few drive cycles to go off; clearing codes with a scan tool is faster (optional).
- Test drive 10–15 minutes and recheck for any warning lights.
- Recheck that all intake clamps are fully seated (a loose intake can cause rough idle).
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$320 (parts only, depending on 1 coil vs 4)
You Save: $120-$200+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















