How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L HEMI
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, misfire codes, and safety tips for 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L HEMI
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, misfire codes, and safety tips for 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Ignition Coil Replacement
This repair replaces the ignition coils on your Grand Cherokee’s 5.7L HEMI V8. Ignition coils create the high-voltage spark that fires the spark plugs, and a weak coil can cause misfires, rough idle, flashing check engine light, or poor acceleration.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work only with the engine completely cool to avoid burns from the cylinder heads and exhaust area.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging ignition coils to reduce electrical risk and avoid accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on the coil wiring. Pull only on the connector body after releasing the lock tab.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt and debris away from the spark plug wells while the coils are removed.
- ⚠️ If the check engine light is flashing, avoid driving until the misfire is fixed because catalytic converter damage can occur.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3-inch extension
- 6-inch extension
- Torque wrench inch-pound range
- Flathead screwdriver
- Plastic trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Compressed air nozzle
- OBD-II scan tool
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fender cover
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-8
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 tube
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Grand Cherokee on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- ❄️ Let the engine cool completely before touching the coils.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move the cable away from the battery post.
- 🧰 An OBD-II scan tool is a small plug-in reader used to identify which cylinder is misfiring, such as P0301 for cylinder 1.
- 📍 Cylinder numbering on the 5.7L HEMI: passenger side front-to-rear is 2-4-6-8; driver side front-to-rear is 1-3-5-7.
- 💡 Each cylinder has one coil-on-plug assembly. “Coil-on-plug” means the coil sits directly on top of the spark plug.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Read Misfire Codes
- Plug the OBD-II scan tool into the diagnostic port under the driver-side dashboard.
- Turn the ignition to RUN without starting the engine.
- Use the OBD-II scan tool to read stored codes.
- Match the code to the cylinder: P0301 means cylinder 1, P0302 means cylinder 2, and so on.
- If replacing all coils as maintenance, continue with all eight cylinders.
- Label cylinders before removing parts.
Step 2: Disconnect the Battery
- Open the hood and install the fender cover to protect the paint.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Lift the negative cable off the battery post and position it where it cannot spring back.
Step 3: Remove the Engine Cover
- Grip the engine cover with both hands and pull straight upward to release it from the rubber mounting grommets.
- If it feels stuck, use a plastic trim tool gently at the edge of the cover.
- Set the cover aside in a safe place.
- Pull upward, not sideways.
Step 4: Locate the Ignition Coils
- Find the rectangular ignition coils along the top outer edges of both cylinder heads.
- Each coil has an electrical connector and mounting fasteners.
- Use a compressed air nozzle to blow dirt away from the coil area before removal.
- Do not blow debris directly into open connectors.
Step 5: Disconnect the Coil Electrical Connector
- Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Use a flathead screwdriver to gently unlock the connector safety tab if equipped.
- Press the release tab with your thumb or use needle-nose pliers carefully if access is tight.
- Pull the connector straight off the ignition coil by the plastic connector body.
- Do not pull on the wires.
Step 6: Remove the Ignition Coil Fasteners
- Use an 8mm socket, 3-inch extension, and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to remove the coil mounting bolts.
- Keep the bolts in order so they do not get lost.
- If rear coils are tight to access, use the 6-inch extension for a straighter angle.
Step 7: Remove the Old Ignition Coil
- Twist the ignition coil gently by hand to loosen the rubber boot from the spark plug.
- Pull the coil straight upward and out of the spark plug well.
- If it sticks, work it side-to-side by hand only. Do not pry against the cylinder head.
- Inspect the rubber boot for oil, carbon tracking, cracks, or white burn marks.
- Carbon tracking looks like pencil lines.
Step 8: Prepare the New Ignition Coil
- Compare the new ignition coil to the old one before installing it.
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside the end of the rubber boot only.
- Dielectric grease is a silicone grease that helps seal out moisture and prevents the boot from sticking.
- Do not smear grease on the electrical connector pins.
Step 9: Install the New Ignition Coil
- Push the new ignition coil straight down over the spark plug until the boot seats fully.
- Start the mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use an 8mm socket, 3-inch extension, and torque wrench inch-pound range to tighten the coil bolts.
- Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
- Do not overtighten. These bolts thread into aluminum.
Step 10: Reconnect the Coil Connector
- Push the electrical connector onto the ignition coil until it clicks.
- If equipped, use your finger or a flathead screwdriver to slide the connector safety lock back into place.
- Gently tug on the connector body to confirm it is locked.
Step 11: Repeat for Additional Coils
- Repeat Steps 5-10 for each ignition coil being replaced.
- Use the 8mm socket, extensions, and torque wrench inch-pound range for each coil.
- Replace coils one at a time to avoid mixing up connectors.
- One-at-a-time prevents mistakes.
Step 12: Reinstall the Engine Cover
- Align the engine cover with the rubber mounting grommets.
- Press straight down by hand until it snaps into place.
- Do not use tools to force the cover on.
Step 13: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the terminal clamp snugly.
- Do not overtighten the clamp because the battery post can be damaged.
Step 14: Clear Codes and Start the Engine
- Use the OBD-II scan tool to clear misfire codes.
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Listen for smooth idle and watch for a check engine light.
- If the engine runs rough, shut it off and recheck the coil connector you serviced.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Let the engine idle for 2-3 minutes and confirm it runs smoothly.
- ✅ Take a short test drive with light acceleration first, then moderate acceleration if everything feels normal.
- ✅ Re-scan with the OBD-II scan tool after the test drive to confirm no misfire codes returned.
- ✅ If the same cylinder misfire returns, the spark plug, fuel injector, wiring, compression, or intake leak may need diagnosis.
- ✅ If battery disconnect caused clock or radio presets to reset, restore them through the Uconnect screen.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$850 depending on whether replacing one coil or all eight
DIY Cost: $35-$400 parts only depending on quantity and brand
You Save: $120-$450 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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