How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Dodge Charger (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 80 in-lbs (9 Nm) torque spec
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Dodge Charger (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 80 in-lbs (9 Nm) torque spec
đź”§ Charger - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Charger uses one ignition coil per cylinder (8 total). Replacing a bad coil fixes misfires, rough idle, flashing check-engine light, and loss of power by restoring strong spark to the spark plug.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; coils sit on hot valve covers.
- ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended to prevent accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring; release the connector lock first.
- ⚠️ If the check-engine light is flashing, avoid driving until repaired.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (inch-pound)
- Trim removal tool
- Small pick tool
- Dielectric grease applicator swab
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 8 if replacing all)
- Ignition coil boot - Qty: 1 (optional if torn/oil-soaked)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and move it aside so it can’t spring back. Negative cable is the “-” terminal.
- If your Charger has an engine cover, plan to remove it first (it pulls upward from rubber grommets).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Grip the cover with both hands and pull straight up to pop it off the grommets.
- If it feels stuck, use a trim removal tool to gently pry upward at a corner.
Step 2: Locate the coil you’re replacing
- The coils sit on top of the valve covers—one per cylinder—with an electrical connector and a single hold-down bolt.
- Tip: Replace one coil at a time to avoid mix-ups.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Use a small pick tool to slide the connector lock (the small colored safety tab) to the “unlock” position. This lock prevents accidental unplugging.
- Press the release tab and pull the connector straight off the coil.
- If it’s tight, use a trim removal tool to gently help it—don’t pry on the wires.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension to remove the bolt.
- Set the bolt aside where it won’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly left/right, then pull straight up to release the boot from the spark plug.
- If it feels stuck, keep twisting gently—don’t use excessive force.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Check the coil boot for tears, swelling, or oil soaking; replace the boot if needed.
- Apply a light smear of dielectric grease inside the tip of the boot using a dielectric grease applicator swab. Dielectric grease helps seal out moisture.
- Push the coil straight down onto the spark plug until it fully seats.
Step 7: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt
- Thread the bolt in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench (inch-pound) to tighten the bolt: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the connector onto the coil until it clicks.
- Use your fingers (or a small pick tool carefully) to slide the lock back to the “locked” position.
Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the battery
- Press the engine cover back onto the grommets until fully seated.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and snug it firmly.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes; listen for smooth idle.
- If the check-engine light was on, it may take a few drive cycles to turn off; clearing codes with a scan tool is faster.
- Test drive gently, then recheck that the coil connector is fully locked and nothing is loose.
- If you find oil inside a coil boot, the valve cover gasket may be leaking and should be addressed.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$400 (parts only, depending on 1 coil vs all 8)
You Save: $150-$300+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















