🔧 Traverse - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Traverse has one ignition coil per cylinder (6 total). Replacing a bad coil restores a strong spark so the engine runs smooth and stops misfiring (shaking, flashing check-engine light, loss of power).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
• Keep hands/tools away from the radiator fans; they can turn on automatically.
• If the check-engine light is flashing, avoid driving hard—misfires can damage the catalytic converters.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’re uncomfortable unplugging engine connectors.
• Do not pull on wiring; press the connector tab and pull the plastic housing.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 1/4" ratchet
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench (5–30 ft-lbs range)
• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 6" extension (3/8" drive)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop light
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1 (recommended if rear coils are replaced)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 (optional)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine fully cool.
• If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative cable and isolate it so it can’t touch the terminal.
• Plan your approach:
  • Front bank coils are easy to access.
  • Rear bank coils usually require removing the upper intake manifold (also called the intake plenum).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

• Grip the cover and pull straight up to release the rubber grommets.
• Set it aside.

Step 2: Decide which coils you’re replacing

• If you’re replacing only one coil, use a paint marker to label the suspect cylinder location first.
• Tip: Replacing coils in pairs is common.

Step 3: Replace a front bank coil (easy access)

• Locate the coil on the front side of the engine (closest to the radiator).
• Press the connector tab and unplug the coil electrical connector.
• Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" ratchet to remove the coil retaining bolt.
• Twist the coil slightly and pull straight up to remove it from the spark plug tube.
• If using dielectric grease (a silicone grease that helps prevent moisture/corrosion), apply a very thin film inside the new coil boot.
• Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats.
• Install the coil bolt with a 10mm socket, then Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) using a 3/8" torque wrench (a tool that tightens bolts to a precise setting).
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 4: Access the rear bank coils (upper intake manifold removal)

• Remove the intake duct:
  • Use an 8mm socket to loosen the hose clamps.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver and/or needle-nose pliers to release any clips/PCV fresh-air tube connection.
  • Lift the duct out.
• Unplug any connectors attached to the upper intake manifold area (use a trim clip removal tool as needed so you don’t break retainers).
• Remove the upper intake manifold bolts using a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet and a 6" extension.
• Lift the upper intake manifold straight up and off, then set it on a clean surface.
• Remove and discard the old upper intake manifold gaskets.

Step 5: Replace a rear bank coil

• With the upper intake manifold off, locate the coils on the rear side of the engine (closest to the firewall).
• Unplug the coil electrical connector.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the coil retaining bolt.
• Twist and pull the coil straight up to remove it.
• Apply a very thin film of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot (optional).
• Install the new coil and bolt, then Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 6: Reinstall the upper intake manifold

• Install new upper intake manifold gaskets onto the manifold or lower sealing surface (match the originals).
• Set the upper intake manifold in place carefully—don’t pinch the gaskets.
• Install the bolts finger-tight, then tighten evenly using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) using a 3/8" torque wrench.
• Reconnect all hoses and electrical connectors you removed.

Step 7: Reinstall the intake duct and engine cover

• Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket.
• Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it onto the grommets.

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✅ After Repair

• If you disconnected the battery, reconnect it using a 10mm socket and make sure the terminal is tight.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. Listen for hissing (vacuum leak) and confirm the idle is smooth.
• Test drive gently, then do a few moderate accelerations.
• If the check-engine light stays on, scan for codes—misfire codes may need clearing after the fix.
• Recheck that every intake clamp and connector is fully seated.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $240-$450+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.